"Clam Chowder stakes its claim as a three-pitch trad route at The Weeping Wall near Suicide Rock, combining technical moves and strategic protection. With a mix of bolted stretches and runouts, it challenges climbers to balance boldness with precision while moving through shaded desert walls."
Clam Chowder offers an engaging trad climbing experience carved into the storied walls of The Weeping Wall near Suicide Rock, a cornerstone in California’s climbing scene. This route unfolds over three pitches stretching 300 feet, demanding both precise technique and confident route reading. The climb begins with a solo approach 20 feet left of the adjoining route Surprise, immediately presenting a 5.7 move close to the ground that tests your ability to find solid holds while feeling the rock's texture. Once beyond this initial crux, the wall eases into a steadier rhythm, allowing focused climbers to set a dependable pace.
Pitch two shifts gears into more sustained climbing at 5.10a, peppered with bolts but interspersed with nerve-testing runouts that require careful protection placement and mental composure. This section is where the route’s character sharpens—challenging ascents balanced by reliable hardware, evoking a heightened sense of adventure where nature’s rough edges prompt respect. Above, a belay ledge shared with Surprise becomes a welcoming pause, offering a chance to survey the climb so far and prepare for the final pitch.
The concluding pitch steps down slightly in difficulty to 5.8, opening into a less technical but no less satisfying scramble to the summit. The climb’s orientation on The Weeping Wall means it slips into shade by mid-afternoon, offering a welcome respite from the sun—ideal for afternoon ascents in warmer months but a cool reminder to plan your start accordingly. The surrounding views deliver a quiet echo of the rugged terrain below, where the dry desert air mingles with the faint scent of chaparral.
Climbers should be prepared with a light rack supplementing the bolts—especially for belay anchors—and remain vigilant of rock quality in the upper pitches. The approach is straightforward but demands attentive navigation, with well-worn paths weaving through sparse vegetation and sun-dappled rock formations. Whether you’re chasing the thrill of technical trad moves or the satisfaction of completing a multi-pitch route at Suicide Rocks, Clam Chowder blends history, challenge, and accessible adventure without overwhelming complexity.
Packing essentials include hydration for exposed desert conditions, shoes that balance grip with comfort for varied rock texture, and timing your climb to maximize shade during the warmer parts of the day. This climb rewards those who bring steady hands, an eye for protection, and a mindset tuned to the rhythm of sharp limestone and open space.
Runouts on pitch two demand focused protection placement; a fall here could result in significant swing or impact. Additionally, the rock quality in some upper sections can be variable—test holds before trusting them fully. Late season climbers should be mindful of rapidly cooling temperatures once shade settles in.
Start early to maximize shade on the route, especially in warmer months.
Light trad rack and a few draws complement the bolted anchors well.
Share belay ledges with Surprise—communication is key when climbing simultaneously.
Hydrate adequately; desert heat and exposure are factors even near shaded sections.
Expect bolts on pitch two but bring a light trad rack for belay anchors and upper pitches. Protection placement is key on the runout sections to maintain safety without slowing your rhythm.
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