"Ciudad de la Furia is a focused 70-foot trad climb featuring a gritty hand crack and a finger-sized splitter on a slightly overhanging wall. Perfect for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills with solid protection opportunities."
Ciudad de la Furia offers a focused, intense climb for trad enthusiasts craving technical crack work within the rugged terrain of El Escalon, Jalisco. This single-pitch route stretches 70 feet up a wall that leans just enough to test your commitment and precision. From the ground, the climb presents a gritty hand crack that demands deliberate jamming and body positioning to progress upward. Beyond the initial crack, the route narrows into a finger-sized splitter, tucked beneath a slightly overhanging bulge that pushes your finger strength and technique to their limits.
The rock’s texture feels raw underhand, providing necessary friction but requiring care to avoid grinding skin too harshly. As you ascend, the wall’s lean invites you to rely on subtle footwork and controlled movements; rushing only invites slips on the smaller holds. The ambient quiet of Northern Mexico’s highlands frames this technical route, with the dry heat accentuating the sharp sounds of fingers sliding into cracks and precise placements of pro gear.
Gear selection plays a crucial role here—hand to finger-sized protection is essential. Expect tight placements that validate your knowledge of small cams and nuts, rewarding climbers who bring their fine-tuned rack. Protection placements must be deliberate, as the crack’s shape varies subtly, offering both challenge and opportunity.
Approaching Ciudad de la Furia involves a straightforward hike through scrubby terrain common to Jalisco’s northern edges. The access path is manageable, taking about 15 minutes from the base parking area. Dynamic weather can play a factor, so timing your climb in the cooler morning hours provides both physical relief and better friction on the rock.
While the route is short, its 5.11a rating isn’t to be underestimated. It demands precise fingers, confident crack technique, and a calm mind to maintain composure on slightly overhanging terrain. Clubs familiar with local classics will find this climb a worthy addition—stiff enough to challenge but direct in its line and beta.
Descend by a single rope rappel from fixed anchors atop the wall, ensuring your line is clean of rock debris that can damage cordage. After the descent, climbers can soak in expansive views of the rugged Jalisco landscape, highlighting the area’s blend of adventure and natural ruggedness.
Ciudad de la Furia is a distilled experience for trad climbers who love crack climbing with a technical edge. It offers an engaging test of hand jams and finger locks framed by the stark, sun-drenched beauty of Northern Mexico’s climbing country.
The slightly gritty rock requires careful hand placements to avoid skin damage, and the overhanging section demands focused protection placements. Make sure to inspect gear before descent and be mindful of loose rock near the anchor zone.
Start early to avoid heat and improve rock friction.
Wear durable tape gloves to protect skin from gritty cracks.
Double-check rappel anchors for rope safety.
Approach trail is dry and loose—wear shoes with good grip.
Bring a rack loaded with small cams and nuts, focusing on hand to finger-sized pieces to protect the varying crack widths. Expect tight placements that require precision.
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