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Chutes and Ladders at The Mileski Wall, El Potrero Chico

Nuevo Leon, Mexico
sport climbing
multi-pitch
limestone
tufas
technical face
fragile rock
jug hauling
chutes
Length: 300 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Chutes and Ladders
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chutes and Ladders offers a compelling three-pitch sport climb on the Mileski Wall with its blend of technical face climbing and distinctive tufas. This route stands out at El Potrero Chico for its varied moves and engaging final pitch through narrow chutes, rewarding climbers with both challenge and character."

Chutes and Ladders at The Mileski Wall, El Potrero Chico

Chutes and Ladders offers an engaging ascent that pulls climbers into the raw vertical drama of El Potrero Chico’s The Mileski Wall. Spanning three pitches and covering roughly 300 feet, this route blends technical face climbing with distinct pockets and tufas that bring a fresh challenge to the area’s usually steep terrain. On the approach, the air hums with desert heat and the sharp scent of juniper—it’s a landscape that dares you upward, inviting you to test your skill against its textured granite.

Your climb starts on the first pitch, a 5.10d face that demands subtle finesse. The rock here is solid but the crux is thin and smeary, requiring precise footwork and balance as you pick your line up an array of clean edges and small holds. The ladder-like movements here prime you for the next pitch, easing into steeper challenges. Pitch two drops a notch to 5.10b, focusing on jug hauling amidst sections of fragile rock. It’s less about sheer difficulty and more about reading the rock critically—trust your hands but move thoughtfully.

The finale is where the route really showcases its unique character. Pitch three, rated 5.11a, twists through narrow chutes and houses tufas and pockets that shape the climb’s distinct personality. There’s a rhythm here, moving through dihedrals sheltered in the wall’s folds, offering a tangible connection to El Potrero’s trademark limestone sculpting. This pitch is fun and dynamic, a memorable contrast to the earlier faces, demanding power and technical savvy.

Though not the highest-rated line in the region, Chutes and Ladders pulls its weight with diversity and an uncommon route profile for Mileski. Protection throughout consists of solid bolts spaced to offer security without cluttering the rock. Given the mix of fragile sections and more bombproof stone, climbers are advised to stay attentive on gear placements and conserve energy during the juggy stretches.

The route lies within a broader area renowned for its openness and scenic mountain views. El Potrero Chico is a magnet for climbers from around the world, drawn by its vast walls and dry desert environment. The Mileski Wall provides a slightly quieter entry point, rewarding those willing to hike in with access to its distinct lines and a chance to experience the rock’s diverse personality.

Timing your climb to avoid the midday heat is essential; early morning or late afternoon ascents allow the wall’s eastern aspect to offer cooler conditions and softer light. The descent from this route is straightforward by rappelling the established anchors or downclimbing with care—loose rock on the upper sections means attention is crucial.

In all, Chutes and Ladders is a spirited route that invites climbers seeking varied movement and a taste of Potrero’s limestone features beyond the usual steep faces. It’s practical, clear-sighted, and rewarding—tailored for those who appreciate craft and creativity in their climbs just as much as the views and setting.

Climber Safety

Fragile rock sections on pitch two require cautious clipping to avoid knocking holds loose. The descent involves rappelling with potential loose rock near anchors—double-check all gear and use a helmet during the descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches3
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the desert heat and enjoy cooler rock conditions.

Wear climbing shoes that excel on thin edges to handle the smear crux on pitch one.

Check weather forecasts; afternoon thunderstorms can roll in quickly in this region.

Bring extra quickdraws for the 300-foot multi-pitch climb and a set of slings.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.11a, Chutes and Ladders sits comfortably in the upper moderate range but feels well-earned, especially on the final pitch with its complex tufas and dihedrals. The first pitch’s smear crux adds a subtle but sharp edge to the challenge, while pitch two’s jug hauling offers some breather moves. In comparison to other local routes, it leans slightly stiffer than average Potrero climbs, demanding both technique and endurance.

Gear Requirements

Bolts provide the primary protection across all pitches, with solid placements throughout. While most bolts are reliable, some sections include fragile rock near the jugs requiring attentive clipping.

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Tags

sport climbing
multi-pitch
limestone
tufas
technical face
fragile rock
jug hauling
chutes