"Chunky Monkey combines solid face climbing with a mix of traditional gear and bolts, delivering a concise but satisfying 45-foot pitch. Ideal for climbers ready to balance gear placements with fixed bolts, this route offers cleaner rock higher up and a secure finish on a spacious ledge."
Chunky Monkey stakes its claim on the right side of a prominent face within The Schoolyard's Narrows section, offering a focused burst of climbing that invites both trad followers and sport enthusiasts. Starting on a defined horizontal seam, this 45-foot route sets off with dependable edges that reward precise footwork and steady hands. The rock surfaces here are varied: while options veer slightly right into rougher, more textured holds, the cleaner rock on the main face demands a sharper eye and finesse. Protection is well thought out, blending traditional gear placements from small cams around 0.4 up to #2 Camalots, supplemented by four reassuring bolts peppered along the upper face section. A red tri-cam earns special mention for its utility on the route’s more intricate placements, ensuring a secure pro build throughout the ascent. Climbers finish atop a generous ledge, anchored by a reliable two-bolt chain system that invites a moment to catch breath and take in the surroundings before the descent. This route’s concise length belies the engaging moves packed into its pitch, balancing technical climbing with the comfort of mixed protection. Approach the climb prepared with gear geared for a hybrid trad and sport experience, and come ready to manage transitions between natural placements and fixed hardware smoothly. With an average rating of 5.8, Chunky Monkey stands as an approachable yet solid pitch—offering an accessible introduction to face climbing complexity with enough subtle challenges to keep it interesting. It’s well placed in the Carbondale Area, a playground filled with diverse grades and route types, allowing climbers to easily link into other adventures before or after tackling this gem.
Watch for loose rock near the base and be mindful of sharp edges when placing cams. The fixed bolts are well maintained, but always check the two-bolt anchor’s integrity before rappelling. Weather can change quickly, so avoid climbing during wet conditions where the rock might become slippery.
Bring a full rack of cams from 0.4 to #2, and don’t skip the red tri-cam for tricky placements.
The approach trail is straightforward but expect loose rock near the base—watch your footing.
Climb the face line for cleaner rock and slightly more technical moves; veering right increases friction but adds roughness.
Descend via rap from the two-bolt chain anchor using a 60m rope; double-check anchors before lowering.
Gear from 0.4 to #2 Camalots is essential, with a red tri-cam greatly enhancing protection options. Four bolts on the face provide additional security, complemented by a two-bolt chain anchor at the top.
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