"Chumlee offers a compact, gritty trad climb carved into the darker granite of Alabama Hills. With its sharp cracks and iconic shark fin profile, this single-pitch route delivers focused 5.8 climbing amidst a striking desert setting."
Carving a sharp line through the echo of the Alabama Hills, Chumlee commands attention with its striking profile etched into the weathered dark granite. From the base, the rock thrusts upward like a shark fin breaking surface—an unmistakable silhouette that dares climbers to test their skills against its curving cracks. This single-pitch, 45-foot trad climb delivers a concentrated surge of adventure, where the rough texture of the stone offers both challenge and grip, demanding respect and precise footwork.
The ascent begins with finger-friendly cracks that twist and flex their way toward a well-established anchor known as 'We're Going To Need A Bigger Bolt.' The protection calls for a solid rack, best equipped with RP nuts and cams up to #3 Camelot, with a few Aliens to finesse placements in tighter seams. The rock is sharp and unforgiving, so climbers should prepare for careful movements to avoid scrapes and abrasions.
Located within the greater Alabama Hills area near Lone Pine, California, this route grants access to an iconic climbing destination where rugged desert meets the Sierra Nevada. The approach is straightforward and brief, allowing for an efficient warm-up or a quick project between longer climbs. The environment holds a quiet, raw energy—the wind whispers through scattered boulders while the sun presses down steadily, illuminating the textured contours of the stone.
Chumlee offers more than just a physical challenge; it invites climbers to engage with the landscape on a tactile level. Its dark rock feels alive under your hands, edges and pockets that seem to shift with each move. While the climb is short, its impact lingers, encouraging climbers to savor every hold and placement as if part of a fleeting conversation with the mountain. Ideal for trad climbers who seek a solid 5.8 with a gritty character, Chumlee is a rewarding addition to any trip in this storied range.
The stone’s sharp edges demand clean, deliberate movements to avoid cuts. Loose rock can be found near the approach and around the anchor—double-check holds and placements. Watch for sun exposure; the route offers little shade throughout the day.
Wear sturdy shoes to handle the sharp granite texture and avoid foot abrasions.
Plan your climb for early morning or late afternoon to dodge the harsh midday sun.
Bring gloves or tape fingers to protect against the jagged rock edges.
Stay aware of loose rock near the base and at the anchor; test holds carefully.
Bring RPs and cams up to #3 Camelot; Aliens can help with tighter placements. The protection opportunities require precision, so pack a full trad rack focused on small- to medium-sized gear.
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