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Christa's Revenge at Fern Gully, The Smoke Bluffs

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
hand crack
trad
single pitch
top rope possible
moderate exposure
smoke bluffs
Length: 95 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Christa's Revenge
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Christa's Revenge, a solid single-pitch trad climb at Fern Gully, Smoke Bluffs, challenges climbers with hand-sized cracks and a direct start that demands commitment. With dependable protection and simple access, it’s a prime move for those seeking an immersive crack climb in Squamish."

Christa's Revenge at Fern Gully, The Smoke Bluffs

Christa's Revenge rises crisply along the right edge of the Fern Gully wall, calling climbers to test their skills on hand-sized cracks that claw upward past a solitary, weathered tree. The approach begins on a cluttered ledge where dirt and moss remind you that nature is never entirely tamed here. From this ledge, the climb veers left, easing into the series of cracks where your fingers find purchase and your feet seek stability against the coarse stone. For those looking to raise the challenge, the direct start offers a thin crack that slices straight upward, bumping the difficulty to a 5.8 and delivering a more committed opening to the route's flow.

The rock of The Smoke Bluffs bears the marks of countless hands, offering solid friction in spots though demanding attention to delicate footwork and precise gear placements. Christa's Revenge itself measures approximately 95 feet in length and unfolds as a single pitch of traditional climbing, blending straightforward crack climbing with subtle variations in crack size to keep you alert.

Protection is straightforward but requires a full rack, including pieces up to 3 inches, to navigate the vertical transitions with confidence. Near the top, two bolts provide reliable anchors, easing any last moments of tension before topping out. The climb finishes in a setting where the natural openness of the outdoors rushes in with cool breezes and dappled light filtering through trees, suggesting a moment to catch your breath and appreciate the rugged scene around you.

Access to Fern Gully is easy from Squamish, British Columbia, where the Smoke Bluffs offer a compact but high-quality climbing experience just beyond the urban edge. After your ascent, you can either descend by walking off left along established trails or rappel directly down Fern Gully, making the exit as smooth as the climb itself.

While some climbers might be tempted to explore nearby variations like Rampage, which skirts left along a rounded ledge to bolts and the summit, Christa's Revenge remains the more straightforward and engaging choice, blending pure crack climbing with a satisfying route flow. Its moderate difficulty and solid protection make it an ideal option for trad climbers seeking a taste of Squamish’s granite without the complexity of multi-pitch commitment.

Prepare your rack carefully, commit to the subtle moves, and keep an eye on the changing light and textures of the rock. Whether you're warming up for longer routes or enjoying a focused single pitch, Christa's Revenge offers a concise and rewarding experience in one of Canada’s premier climbing areas.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose dirt on the starting ledge, which can reduce footing security. Protection placements demand careful attention as some jams span unusual crack widths. When descending, ensure your rappel anchor is secure and double-check knots before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length95 feet

Local Tips

Start on the direct crack for a more engaging 5.8 challenge.

Use a full rack with larger cams—3-inch pieces come in handy.

The ledge at the base is dirty; brush and clear before climbing for better holds.

Descend by walking off left or rappel straight down Fern Gully for convenience.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.7
Quality
Consensus:At 5.7, Christa's Revenge offers a moderate difficulty level that feels approachable for most trad climbers but don't be lulled—some sections require confident hand jams and thoughtful gear placements. The direct start nudges difficulty up to 5.8, giving climbers seeking a bit more punch a good warm-up. Compared to nearby routes in Smoke Bluffs, it holds its own with a natural crack climb that emphasizes technique over sheer athleticism.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack is essential, including protection up to 3 inches to cover the thicker sections of the crack. Two bolts at the top offer solid anchors for setting up top-rope or rappelling.

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Tags

hand crack
trad
single pitch
top rope possible
moderate exposure
smoke bluffs