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Choss Boss Direct at Cracked Wall, Bishop Peak

San Luis Obispo, California United States
walkable ledge
top rope
exposed crux
granite
single pitch
beginner friendly
central coast
Length: 55 ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Choss Boss Direct
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Choss Boss Direct sidesteps the tricky bottom section of Bob's Cling with a walkable ledge, leading to a solid 5.9 crux near the top. A practical, well-protected climb on Bishop Peak’s Cracked Wall, perfect for climbers aiming to refine technique in a scenic outdoor setting."

Choss Boss Direct at Cracked Wall, Bishop Peak

Choss Boss Direct offers an immediate and gritty introduction to climbing on Bishop Peak’s Cracked Wall, just outside San Luis Obispo. This single-pitch route skims past the more technical bottom sections of Bob’s Cling, choosing instead a walkable ledge that leads steadily upward on the hill’s right side. The route’s character is defined by its approachable start, which feels like a natural progression from firm footholds to the more concentrated challenge near the top—where a brief but decisive crux awaits. The rock here is a telling blend of granite that tests steady footwork and the ability to read the subtly shifting texture beneath your hands.

Though the climb is rated 5.9 and approachable for many intermediate climbers, the top section demands an attentive focus on balance and placement since this is where the crux lives. Those looking for an added challenge can swing right onto the neighboring line, Llama, a hard-fought 10b that shares the lower start but diverges into sustained sport climbing terrain marked by significantly longer runouts.

Protection on Choss Boss Direct relies heavily on top roping, making it a safer choice for climbers honing their technique without the pressure of traditional gear placements. For those opting for the harder variation, be prepared for larger runouts and the potential for falling longer distances. The route’s 55-foot height keeps it manageable for a quick session, and its position on Bishop Peak offers a peaceful outdoor experience just minutes from the bustle of San Luis Obispo.

The approach involves a straightforward hike through open forest paths and sunlit granite outcrops, winding its way to the base of Cracked Wall. With an elevation gain that’s modest but steady, the walk primes climbers to focus on the immediate task ahead while enjoying distant views of Central California’s rolling hills. Timing your climb during spring or autumn will keep temperatures comfortable, as summer sun can be relentless on the exposed rock.

Footwear with solid edging ability and moderate cushioning is recommended to handle both the walkable ledge and the crux’s sharper holds. Hydration remains a priority on the approach and return, especially when the sun climbs high. The modest length of the climb makes it perfectly suited for a half-day outing, giving you room to explore other nearby routes or enjoy a picnic with expansive views of the surrounding Central Coast.

Choss Boss Direct is an ideal introduction to Bishop Peak climbing—offering a taste of adventure and technical climbing without overwhelming risk. Its blend of approachable movement with a sharp finale encourages progression and reward. Whether you come for steady skill sharpening or to savor a scenic climb near town, this route delivers a compact experience worth the journey.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the crux near the top — the rock here can be somewhat loose, so test holds carefully. The runout on the optional harder variation, Llama, means falls can be longer and more serious; assess your comfort with exposure before committing.

Route Details

TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length55 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday sun on the exposed granite.

Wear shoes with precise edging to handle slick footholds on the ledge.

Bring at least 2 liters of water for the approach and climb.

Check local weather; occasional winds can catch you on the ridge.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels fair, with the crux near the top providing a concise but noticeable spike in difficulty. The lower section’s walkable ledge reduces sustained effort, making the route accessible but with enough punch to challenge climbers progressing from easier climbs. Compared to other Bishop Peak routes, this one strikes a balance between approachable sport and a taste of upper-end technical moves.

Gear Requirements

Top rope protection is standard on Choss Boss Direct, providing security for the 5.9 crux near the summit. Choosing the adjacent harder route, Llama, requires sport climbing gear and readiness for extended runouts.

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Tags

walkable ledge
top rope
exposed crux
granite
single pitch
beginner friendly
central coast