"Chopper Copper delivers a punchy single-pitch sport climb on the textured Burney Limestone. With a crux at the fourth bolt and a tricky finish, it tests balance and precision without demanding lengthy endurance."
Chopper Copper stands out on the rugged Burney Limestone, a focused single-pitch sport route that demands concentrated effort and precise movement. Located opposite the Main Wall within the northeast California climbing zone, this route offers a raw experience peppered with challenging holds and a striking arete. The wall’s surface, etched with a water-carved runnel and smooth heucos, creates a tactile playground—wet stone that tests your grip and forces attention to foot placement.
From the ground, you begin by climbing directly up to your first fixed bolt, newly installed and reliable, setting the tone for a well-protected yet engaging ascent. The crux centers around the fourth bolt, where the rock tightens and the movement sharpens, requiring controlled power and balance. Beyond this section lies one final demanding move that tests both strength and nerve, with a potential risk of a fall if you push too hard without steady control.
Burney Limestone’s environment is marked by clear skies and wide-open terrain, with the rock face exposed to the sun during much of the day. It’s wise to plan your climb during morning or late-afternoon hours when temperatures are more moderate and the angle of sunlight reduces glare on the hold edges. The approach is straightforward but rugged—the trail threads through mixed scrub and loose rock, requiring sturdy footwear and careful footing as you gain the base of the climb.
Protection relies on four fixed three-eighth inch bolts, leading to a solid traditional-style anchor made of stainless steel fixe pins and a 6-inch piece integrated with a secure trad setup. This combination gives both confidence and flexibility, ensuring a safe descent or top-rope setup for less confident climbers. Although the climb is short, its compact challenge makes it perfect for those looking to sharpen their sport climbing skills without committing to extended pitches.
Chopper Copper’s character hinges on its directness and the raw feeling of climbing against the rugged limestone wall. The textural contrast between smooth water-polished channels and rough arete edges provides tactile intrigue, while the crux demands mental focus, making every movement purposeful. Ideal for intermediate climbers eager to push into 5.8 territory, this route rewards solid technique, body positioning, and a calm approach to the final, unforgiving moves.
Whether you arrive solo for quick practice or with a partner ready to send, this climb offers a refreshing dose of compact, high-value sport climbing in one of California’s lesser-visited limestone pockets. Prepare well, carry enough water to stay hydrated under the dry sun, and wear shoes with sticky rubber to maximize your contact on often slick surfaces. Wind can pick up in the afternoon, so check local weather before you start. Chopper Copper is a measured test and a chance to connect with limestone that’s alive beneath your fingers, waiting for you to make your mark.
The route’s finish includes a committing move above the last bolt; a fall here could result in a significant drop before the anchor. Ensure your clipping technique is secure, and avoid rushing the crux to minimize risk. The rock is generally sound but check for any water slickness near the runnel section.
Approach trail is rocky and uneven—wear sturdy boots to avoid slips.
Climb in the morning or late afternoon to avoid intense midday sun.
Bring sticky rubber shoes for secure footholds on water-polished rock.
Check wind forecasts, as gusts can complicate delicate moves near the arete.
This route features four fixed 3/8-inch bolts leading to a stainless steel fixe trad anchor with a 6-inch piece, making gear straightforward and reliable. Ideal for sport climbers looking for solid protection while balancing a bold crux.
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