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Chokin' the Chicken at Chocolate Tower

Buena Vista, Colorado United States
roof crux
mixed protection
single pitch
Colorado climbing
technical moves
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chokin' the Chicken
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chokin' the Chicken is a crisp 80-foot trad and sport hybrid at Chocolate Tower, delivering solid rock with a technical crux beneath a challenging roof. Its mix of reliable bolts and trad placements makes it a smart choice for climbers seeking both security and a test of skill in Buena Vista’s rugged mountain air."

Chokin' the Chicken at Chocolate Tower

Rising sharply on the sheer face of Chocolate Tower near Buena Vista, Colorado, Chokin' the Chicken offers climbers a sharp test of skill wrapped in a manageable 80-foot pitch. This route blends trad and sport climbing, presenting engaging moves that demand precision and calm nerves, particularly as you near the roof section where a tricky sequence awaits. The rock’s texture provides solid holds throughout, inviting both confident hand jamming and careful footwork. The climb begins with moderate moves that steadily build into a short but stiff crux just beneath the roof, pushing climbers to balance effort with finesse before the route eases off towards a straightforward final stretch leading to fixed anchors.

Approach is straightforward within Chocolate Tower’s popular climbing area, situated roughly 38.876 latitude and -106.146 longitude. The setting offers a direct route to the base, with enough space to stage gear and prepare for a climb that mixes the reliability of fixed bolts with the need for smart trad placements. Climbers should expect to carry a selection of small to medium cams and nuts to complement the route’s six bolts, which have been updated in recent years to ensure dependable protection without compromising the adventure and thoughtful rack management.

This climb is ideal for those looking to sharpen their trad skills while benefiting from the security that well-placed bolts afford. The rock’s character rewards attention and skill rather than brute force, making it accessible yet challenging. It’s a solid pick for mid-level climbers aiming to advance their technique on varied protection and moderate exposure. Weather in the Colorado high country can shift quickly, so timing your climb in late spring through early fall maximizes stable conditions and afternoon shade, as the east-facing wall tends to receive sun in the morning before cooling off later in the day.

After the climb, descend carefully via the fixed anchors using a double rope rappel or consider a cautious downclimb for those comfortable with sections of loose rock near the top rim. Always double-check your rig and watch for loose debris on the descent path. This route’s compact length and straightforward access make it an excellent half-day objective, perfect for expanding your route repertoire at Chocolate Tower while soaking in the expansive vistas of Buena Vista’s mountain backdrop.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the top roof section and always verify bolt hangers before committing. The descent requires either a solid rappel from fixed anchors or a cautious downclimb; be mindful of scree and potential instability on the approach and exit trails.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday sun on the wall, especially in summer.

Bring a moderate rack focusing on small to medium cams for tricky placements.

Double-check anchor station before descent; fixed anchors are secure but always verify.

Plan for a rappel descent or carefully downclimb, watching for loose rock near the top.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating feels well earned here, with a subtle crux roof section that adds an edge of sustained difficulty. The grade leans slightly into the harder side of 5.9 due to technical footwork and body positioning rather than raw power. Compared to other trad climbs in the Chocolate Tower area, it offers a balanced challenge that’s approachable for climbers comfortable with some bolt-assisted protection.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack of small to medium trad gear plus quickdraws for six bolts spaced throughout the route. As of recent updates, bolt hangers are fixed and reliable, but careful placement of cams and nuts remains crucial for safety and confidence.

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Tags

roof crux
mixed protection
single pitch
Colorado climbing
technical moves