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Chocolate Sky: A Steep Test of Precision in Las Nueve

Bayamón, Puerto Rico
technical
pocket climbing
steep headwall
sport
single pitch
glue-in bolts
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chocolate Sky
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chocolate Sky offers a focused push through technical pocket climbing on a steep headwall just outside Bayamón. This single-pitch sport route combines a sustained 5.10 approach with a challenging 5.11d crux, ideal for climbers who thrive on precise movement and tactical rests."

Chocolate Sky: A Steep Test of Precision in Las Nueve

Chocolate Sky stands out in the rugged crags of Las Nueve as a sharp challenge for climbers ready to push into the 5.11 range. This single-pitch sport climb demands focus and finesse, beginning either from a sheltered pit that offers immediate engagement or by traversing in from the right side, both approaches revealing the raw texture of the wall. The initial moves settle into a sustained 5.10 section where small holds urge careful hand placement and thoughtful footwork. After reaching a substantial rest ledge, climbers face a steep headwall peppered with tiny pockets and pinches, forcing delicate body positioning against a near-vertical canvas of stone.

Las Nueve’s surroundings add to the experience—the dry breeze of northern Puerto Rico filters softly through nearby vegetation, carrying with it the earthy scent of sun-warmed rock. The angle of the wall invites climbers to read the subtle variations in texture and grain, each pocket a tempting, yet demanding grip that rewards precision over brute strength.

The route is protected by nine neatly installed glue-in bolts, spaced to support confident movement while encouraging attentive clipping and gear management. With 60 feet of climbing, it’s an intense, concentrated encounter with the rock that packs a dynamic mix of rests and cruxes within a brief ascent.

Getting here means accessing the Las Nueve crag in Nuevo Bayamón, where the approach is straightforward but commands awareness of footing on the rocky trails. The temperate tropical climate calls for early starts to avoid midday heat, making morning sessions especially pleasant with cooling shade falling across the wall.

For climbers considering this route, bring precise climbing shoes with good edging ability to navigate the smaller holds, and keep your chalk bag close as the pinches and slopers demand clean hand contact. This is a route that doesn’t just test power—it challenges your ability to read the rock and pace yourself through a technical sequence.

Chocolate Sky is a compelling destination for those who want more than just vertical meters; it offers an encounter with the rock’s character, the crisp Caribbean light, and a reminder that in climbing, every hold counts. Whether you’re elevating your sport climbing or seeking a sharp contrast to more sprawling multi-pitch routes nearby, this wall delivers a compact, demanding climb that leaves a lasting impression.

Climber Safety

Watch for slick spots on the approach and ensure your quickdraws are clipped cleanly to avoid awkward falls on the steep headwall. The bolts are solid, but careful clipping and maintaining control during the crux moves are essential for safety.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday heat and enjoy cooler wall conditions.

Approach trails are rocky but well-defined—sturdy footwear recommended.

Bring plenty of chalk as the small holds demand clean, dry hands.

Utilize the big rest ledge mid-route to recover before tackling the crux.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:Rated at a crisp 5.11d, Chocolate Sky features a crux that steps up sharply from a sustained 5.10 section. The grade feels accurate and may lean slightly stiff if you’re not practiced in delicate pocket sequences. Compared to nearby sport routes, its compact nature demands sustained focus without long breaks—the rest ledge is well-earned and crucial for recovery.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with 9 glue-in bolts leading to chain anchors, Chocolate Sky requires standard sport climbing gear: quickdraws for clipping bolts, a rope suitable for single-pitch 60-foot climbs, and shoes with reliable edging for small pockets and pinches.

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Tags

technical
pocket climbing
steep headwall
sport
single pitch
glue-in bolts