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Chocolate Nut Factory: A Compact Trad and Sport Challenge on Oceanic Wall

Boulder, Colorado United States
medium nuts
twin cracks
bolted start
single pitch
beginner trad
sunny exposure
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chocolate Nut Factory
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Just right of Pound Town, Chocolate Nut Factory delivers a dynamic 50-foot blend of sport bolts and traditional gear on Boulder’s Oceanic Wall. This approachable 5.9- route challenges climbers with slick cracks and solid protection in a compact, scenic setting."

Chocolate Nut Factory: A Compact Trad and Sport Challenge on Oceanic Wall

Positioned at the heart of Upper Dream Canyon, Colorado, the Chocolate Nut Factory trail stands as a concise yet compelling climb for those eager to balance technique and adventure. Just a stone’s throw to the right of the classic Pound Town route, this 50-foot climb offers a blend of sport bolts and traditional gear placements that invites climbers to engage both body and mind. The route begins with a series of bolts guiding you up toward a sun-dappled ledge marked by a solitary tree. Here, the atmosphere shifts as twin cracks welcome hand jams and gear placements, offering a tactile transition from fixed bolts to trusted protection you place yourself. The final stretch calls for one more bolt clip before arriving at secure chains poised for your belay.

On a practical level, this single-pitch ascent packs a balanced challenge at the 5.9- level. While the bolts offer confidence for less experienced climbers, the medium to large nuts and a 0.5 cam placement demand attention, rewarding those comfortable with trad placements. The engagement here is in managing your rack and reading the sequence—not just physical movement. The approach to this climb is straightforward: an easy walk into a high-desert environment with views stretching over Boulder and beyond. The rock surface is typical of the area—clean and sound, requiring thoughtful footwork and respect for friction.

Protection on the route is well thought out—six solid bolts anchor the initial moves before transitioning to traditional gear opportunities, which is perfect for those expanding their trad experience without committing to a long wall. This route's anchors come with rings, simplifying lowers, a practical touch appreciated by groups moving efficiently between pitches.

Timing your climb here means aiming for morning or late afternoon sessions when the Oceanic Wall catches gentle light and temperatures remain amenable, especially in summer’s warm Colorado sun. This climb’s southern exposure ensures that winter ascent should be carefully timed to avoid icy patches. Weather here can shift quickly, so aiming for stable days ensures your safety and enjoyment.

Climbing Chocolate Nut Factory is as much about reading the rock and placing your gear with precision as it is about physical effort. The route’s blend of sport and trad reminds climbers that climbing is an interactive conversation between you and the wall. Whether you’re seeking to sharpen your trad skills or add a new super approachable route to your arsenal, this climb fits the bill.

Planning essentials: pack a rack focusing on medium nuts, some cams around 0.5, and quickdraws for the bolts. Good shoes with sticky rubber will help on the slick face sections, while hydration and sun protection are important given the exposed approach. The walk-in is brief and relatively gentle, but still give yourself time to adjust to altitude and scout the route. Most climbers will appreciate getting familiar with the bolt and natural protection sequence ahead of time.

Oceanic Wall itself is a gem of Boulder’s climbing scene—accessible yet offering routes that encourage growing skills. The landscape pushes you to enjoy broad horizons, cool breezes through piñon pines, and the satisfaction of placing your own gear while bolted security offers a welcome safety net. In all, Chocolate Nut Factory is a route where preparation meets opportunity, the rock dares you to climb smart, and the scenery rewards every step upward.

Climber Safety

While the bolts provide good protection low on the route, the trad placements in the cracks require careful gear assessment—select your nuts and cams wisely. Summer heat and strong sun on the southern-facing wall mean hydration and sunscreen are vital. Check for loose debris near the ledge tree area before clipping bolts.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach is a short, easy hike – allow 20 minutes from parking with light gear.

Morning climbs offer cooler temperatures and firmer rock friction.

Bring a rack emphasizing medium nuts and a 0.5 cam for key placements on the twin cracks.

Sun protection is essential due to the wall’s southern exposure.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating feels approachable, with a smooth flow from bolted face climbing to finger crack placements. The rating is on the softer side for a 5.9, largely due to the route’s focused length and well-protected sections. Climbers used to Boulder’s Oceanic Wall will find this a perfect practice ground to transition from pure sport to mixed trad.

Gear Requirements

Route protection includes six bolts complemented by two medium to large nuts and a 0.5 cam placement, striking a balance that rewards precise gear placement while maintaining a comfortable safety net. Anchors come equipped with rings, simplifying lowering procedures.

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Tags

medium nuts
twin cracks
bolted start
single pitch
beginner trad
sunny exposure