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Chocolate Mice: Steep Sport Climbing on the Chocolate Block

Lone Pine, California USA
steep climbing
sport route
large jugs
desert environment
single pitch
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chocolate Mice
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chocolate Mice offers a solid 50-foot blast of steep sport climbing on improbably large yet slim jugs. Located in the striking Alabama Hills, this 5.8 pitch balances physical endurance with accessible protection, delivering a memorable test amid iconic high-desert scenery."

Chocolate Mice: Steep Sport Climbing on the Chocolate Block

Chocolate Mice slices through the rugged face of the Chocolate Block in the Alabama Hills with a determined sharpness that commands focus from the first move. This single-pitch sport climb stretches about 50 feet along a steep wall that challenges your balance and grip with a series of unusually large, thin jugs that almost feel too good to be true. The rock leans forward in a way that inches you into the climb, testing endurance more than technical complexity. While rated a moderate 5.8, the angle pushes this climb beyond easy territory — it’s a workout that leans into strength and control rather than delicate footwork.

The location itself, tucked within the Sierra Eastside's famed Alabama Hills near Lone Pine, casts a sharp contrast between the climb’s close-quarters intensity and the vast desert-born landscape surrounding it. From this vantage, the jagged outlines of the Sierra Nevada rise in the distance, their granite peaks catching the light as the day matures. The rock here has a sandy texture, offering enough friction but demanding attention to what holds you trust. The bolts placed at regular intervals assure a safe ascent, but their number is minimal—five in total—so maintaining steady upward momentum is key.

Getting to Chocolate Mice requires a straightforward approach along well-worn paths through the Alabama Hills, a place characterized by its moonlike boulders and open desert air. Climbers here often set out early to avoid the afternoon sun striking the east-facing wall, where the climb plays best in the cooler hours of spring and fall. Hydration is critical; the dry air and exposed approach mean bringing ample water to stay sharp on the rock. Shoes with solid edging will serve well here, as tiny footholds demand precise placement.

This climb is an inviting choice for those looking to add some strength-building, steep sport climbing within a dramatic desert setting. With its moderate rating and accessible length, Chocolate Mice offers a compelling test that doesn’t overwhelm but insists on respect for its steep profile and handful of protection points. Whether you're pacing through a desert day of sport climbing or making this your first introduction to the area’s unique granite, expect a climb that hooks into your arm muscles while drawing your eyes back to the vast sky and distant peaks framing your ascent.

Climber Safety

While the route is well bolted, the steepness means falls could result in longer pendulums if clipping is slow. Ensure quickdraws are securely placed and be wary of rockfall season after heavy rains. The approach is exposed, so protective clothing and sun protection are essential.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday sun on the east-facing wall.

Bring at least two liters of water—desert air is deceptively draining.

Wear climbing shoes with precise edging for better foothold control.

Check the bolts but trust the placements; the rock is solid but angles demand focus.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating on Chocolate Mice sits just above moderate, pushed harder by the sustained steepness and physicality rather than technical moves. Climbers may find their forearms taxed more than expected for a 5.8, making this feel like a solid mid-grade climb with a demanding pump. Compared to nearby routes in the Alabama Hills, it offers a straightforward but physically engaging ascent without technical cruxes.

Gear Requirements

Five bolts provide straightforward protection along the steep pitch. Bring quickdraws suitable for standard sport anchors, and be prepared for limited opportunities to clip between. A moderately stiff rope (60-70m) is sufficient for ascent and descent.

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Tags

steep climbing
sport route
large jugs
desert environment
single pitch