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Chocksucker at Six Toe Rock: A Rugged Trad Challenge

Dunsmuir, California United States
lieback
dihedral
trad climbing
mossy rock
build-your-own anchor
castle crags
northeast california
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Chocksucker
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chocksucker at Six Toe Rock delivers a gritty, physically demanding trad climb defined by intense lie-backing and classic crack moves. Its seldom-traveled dihedral invites climbers to test endurance and technique amidst quiet granite walls and mossy holds."

Chocksucker at Six Toe Rock: A Rugged Trad Challenge

Chocksucker commands attention just to the right of the iconic 6 Toe Crack, a gritty trad climb embedded in the rugged granite faces of Castle Crags, Northeast California. This two-pitch route offers a physically demanding experience centered on strenuous lie-backing, testing your endurance and technique up a moss-speckled dihedral that hints at its infrequent traffic. From the moment you find your fingers and feet locked into the shallow crack system, the climb challenges your body and focus in equal measure.

The first pitch kicks off with a short but steady crux over the initial 25 feet. This section demands precise footwork and relentless tension, balancing on slippery patches of lichen that cloak the lower rock. Once past this, you’ll reach a spot roughly level with the 6 Toe Crack where a sturdy build-your-own anchor awaits. The protection here is reassuring if you’re prepared with a well-rounded rack, as smaller cams predominate, but having larger pieces (#3 and #3.5 Camalots) adds valuable security in the wider sections.

Continuing upward on pitch two, the route remains true to its lie-back essence, the dihedral opening into spaces that invite careful placement and an awareness of gear positioning. At the pitch’s top, you’ll meet a sling belay shared with 6 Toe Crack, a neat intersection that offers a spot to regroup before your descent.

Notably, some climbers choose to step left here to ascend the 6 Toe Crack’s third pitch, a testament to the versatility of this climbing area. For those seeking a pure along-the-dihedral experience, remaining in the lie-back system maintains the route's raw character. The descent reverses via a rappel down the 6 Toe Crack using a single 60-meter rope, an efficient retreat that’s straightforward but requires careful attention due to the exposed nature of the rappel.

Castle Crags itself is an open-sided granite outcrop known for its exposed cliffs, forested approaches, and commanding views over Northern California’s rugged landscape. While the climb may not attract crowds, the setting provides a quiet intensity and chance to connect deeply with the rock. Given the moss and lichen near the base, timing your ascent in drier seasons is wise, as moisture can increase slipperiness.

This climb answers those craving a moderately difficult technical climb with classic hand and finger jams combined with sustained lie-back moves. Preparation is key: sturdy, flexible footwear for edging and smearing, reliable traditional protection, and practiced rope management will make your experience safer and more fluid. Hydrate thoroughly and plan for sun exposure, as the route’s northeast orientation means morning shade but afternoon sun in the warmer months.

Chocksucker at Six Toe Rock is a gritty, unpolished climb that rewards perseverance and respect for old-school crack climbing. It stands as a solid addition for any adventure-driven climber seeking to stretch their trad skills in a distinctive Northern California venue.

Climber Safety

The bottom of pitch one is covered with moss and lichen that can be slippery, especially after rain or in morning dew. Use caution on these holds and test placements carefully. The rappel down the 6 Toe Crack is exposed; double-check your rappel setup and rope length before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach in dry conditions to avoid slippery moss and lichen on the lower dihedral.

Bring a full set of cams, prioritizing small to mid-range sizes with a couple of larger cams.

Plan to rappel using a single 60m rope down the 6 Toe Crack for a safe descent.

Morning ascents offer cooler temperatures with shade on the northeast-facing wall.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here leans on the older side of the traditional grading scale, combining technical lie-back sequences and sustained hand jams. It feels appropriately challenging for solid intermediate trad climbers, with a crux near the start of pitch one that requires precise body positioning. Compared to other Northern California 5.9 routes, it stands out for its physicality and less-frequented nature, making the grade feel both straightforward and committed.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack required, mostly thin placements dominate the route. Larger cams such as #3 and #3.5 Camalots are recommended for wider sections and added peace of mind.

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Tags

lieback
dihedral
trad climbing
mossy rock
build-your-own anchor
castle crags
northeast california