Chockblock Chimney presents a gritty, old-school trad climb that tests your chimney technique amid the iconic granite of Yosemite National Park. This three-pitch route ascends a wide, rugged chimney system on the Chapel Wall, demanding both body tension and careful gear placement as you navigate its cracked walls and natural obstacles. Starting with a gradual hike up a Class 2-4 chimney, the climb quickly tightens below a prominent chockblock—a massive wedged boulder that both protects and complicates the route. Climbers can choose a rusty bolt ladder bypass for a safer passage, but the free climbing variation, rated a solid 5.8, offers a gratifying challenge with well-placed protection if you’re comfortable with traditional gear.

Pitch one’s climax involves reaching above the chockblock onto a sloped, sandy ledge where a belay is set in a cluster of bushes and trees. From there, pitch two shifts to a hollow stack of blocks, easy at 5.5, but don’t be lulled into complacency; progress is hindered by years of debris and brush that block the path. Locating a small passageway through this natural barricade is as much part of the climb as the moves themselves, adding a rugged, off-the-beaten-path dimension. A tricky belay awaits on top of this debris, signaling the start of the final pitch.

The last pitch climbs a narrower chimney with questionable protection. The route requires stemming carefully along increasingly decayed rock, demanding steady footwork and mental focus to avoid less secure placements. The crux involves sidestepping around a tight impasse to keep moving upward, holding to a 5.7 difficulty but with a sense of commitment that feels stiffer than the number suggests.

Once on top, a large pine tree anchors the rappel system. These descents require two ropes to negotiate the double rappels down to the base of the climb, traversing back across sloped ledges and utilizing a rusty bolt with an old stopper anchor. The descent demands attention and planning to avoid slipping or miscommunication, capping off a climb that balances adventure with calculated risk.

Chockblock Chimney is for those who appreciate classic chimney climbing and historic routes. It offers a rich tactile connection to Yosemite climbing’s pioneering past while requiring modern judgment, gear savvy, and respect for the route’s state. While the overall route may feel somewhat neglected, its quiet challenges and the natural obstacles in its way create a unique Yosemite granite experience, far from the crowds and polished sport climbs.

Approach starts from the Valley South Side, navigating forested terrain that rewards hikers with early views and a sense of wilderness. Bring sturdy shoes to handle the sandy ledges and slippery bushes, plenty of water as the area dries quickly in summer, and practice solid chimney techniques. Timing your climb for mid-spring or fall avoids the peak heat and ensures less crowded conditions.

Whether you’re refining your crack skills or seeking a low-traffic route with character, Chockblock Chimney stands as a memorable alpine trad adventure that invites climbers to engage fully with the rock and route-finding all the way to the summit and back down.