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Chip Off Trad Climb in Cracked Canyon Colorado

Telluride, Colorado USA
arete
runout
single pitch
trad gear
Colorado
exposed
varied moves
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chip Off
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chip Off in Cracked Canyon challenges climbers with a single-pitch trad climb featuring runout sections and a variety of interesting moves along a striking arete. Perfect for those ready to manage gear placements with precision in a rugged Colorado setting."

Chip Off Trad Climb in Cracked Canyon Colorado

Chip Off offers an accessible but thoughtful trad climb in the heart of Cracked Canyon, situated within the rugged landscapes that surround Ophir, near Telluride and Norwood, Colorado. From the moment you step into the canyon’s entrance, the climb begins with a groove framing the base of a striking arete—a sharp edge of rock that beckons you upward. The route presses left early, moving across textured slabs before tracing the arete directly. Finally, it angles right onto a massive ledge leading toward the route’s conclusion. Expect the rock to test your route-finding skills and your nerve, with runouts that add a touch of boldness to the 100-foot single pitch.

The environment here is raw and natural, with exposed faces catching sunlight while occasional pockets of shade offer fleeting respite. A well-placed, sturdy tree at the top serves as a natural anchor, providing security after the exposed moves. For those looking to mix things up, top-rope variations spread across the face, inviting climbers to explore different lines and techniques on the same impressive wall.

Protection calls for a full rack and then some—opportunities to place pro exist but can be sparse in spots, requiring careful gear management and confidence in runout sections. This climb rewards climbers who favor controlled decision-making as much as steady movement. The rock texture is solid but demands precise hand and foot placement, with occasional stretches requiring delicate balance. With a rating of 5.9 PG13, it sits comfortably in the moderate range but with subtle cruxes and exposure that can push the limits of less experienced leaders.

Getting here involves navigating Cracked Canyon’s rugged approach, itself a prelude to the climbing. The terrain is uneven, consisting of dirt and rock paths winding through open, rocky plateaus dotted with hardy pines. Given the desert-mountain climate, early morning or late afternoon climbs offer the best temperatures and lighting, avoiding the harsh midday sun. Water and weather preparedness are essential, since the area can shift quickly from calm to windy or rainy conditions.

Whether you’re aiming for an introduction to Colorado’s traditional routes or searching for a climbing experience that balances challenge with manageable commitment, Chip Off delivers. The combination of straightforward climbing moves, exposure, and strategic gear placement makes for an engaging climb that demands focus and rewards thoughtful effort. It’s a perfect choice for climbers looking to sharpen trad skills in an inspiring yet approachable setting.

Climber Safety

Watch for runout sections with limited pro; falls here could be longer than expected. The rock is solid but be mindful of loose debris near the base. Seasonal weather can change quickly—avoid climbs when thunderstorms loom.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Approach via well-marked trails but expect rocky terrain—sturdy boots recommended.

Start early to avoid afternoon sun and afternoon thunderstorms common in summer.

Use the tree atop the route for a safe and solid anchor before descending.

Consider practicing your runout tolerance and gear placements on easier nearby routes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9 PG13, Chip Off strikes a balance between moderate technical difficulty and mental challenge. The protection is less frequent in places, creating sustained runouts that heighten exposure. While the moves themselves are within the 5.9 range, the PG13 rating signals areas where careful placement and calm nerves are necessary. Compared to other local routes, it leans toward the bolder side of moderate climbs.

Gear Requirements

Bring a complete trad rack, as protection spots are available but can be spaced out. Emphasize smaller cams and nuts that can be placed wherever possible to manage risk along runout stretches.

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Tags

arete
runout
single pitch
trad gear
Colorado
exposed
varied moves