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Chinese Chicken: A Compact Sport Climb on Barenaked Wall

Lake Arrowhead, California United States
roof crux
optional trad gear
granite sport
single pitch
San Bernardino Mountains
Length: 25 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chinese Chicken
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chinese Chicken offers a focused 25-foot sport climb on Barenaked Wall, blending smooth granite with a technical crux roof. Ideal for climbers wanting quick, skill-testing routes with optional trad gear in the heart of Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles."

Chinese Chicken: A Compact Sport Climb on Barenaked Wall

Chinese Chicken presents a brief yet satisfying challenge on the Barenaked Wall, located within the sprawling San Bernardino Mountains. This single-pitch, 25-foot climb is a perfect opportunity for climbers looking to sharpen their technique on sport climbs where a little optional trad gear adds strategic depth. From the base, you'll find yourself tracing a clean line that begins with a subtle pull over a modest roof—the crux move—that tests both your balance and timing. Beyond this, the route eases onto a small ledge, offering a moment to shake out and prepare for a technical finish. Optional medium-sized protection can be placed along a horizontal crack just above the crux, providing a welcomed sense of security before the bolted anchors at the top. The Barenaked Wall's granite surface feels solid underhand grips and delicate foot placements alike, making this a smooth ascent once the initial roof is overcome.

This climb’s position within the Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles places you in a lively climbing zone where short sport routes integrate pockets for light trad use, ideal for climbers keen to practice mixed protection tactics. The surrounding terrain is quintessential Southern California mountain—pine-scented air mingles with cool shade as the ridge stretches above the valley floor. The approach is straightforward, approaching Ant Trail Loop’s junction and following marked paths to the base without confusion. Given its modest length, it’s a fine option for a quick session or as a warm-up on a day exploring more extensive climbs in the pinnacles.

Since Chinese Chicken is rated 5.8, it sits comfortably in the moderate category but features a technical crux that brings an edge to an otherwise friendly face climb. The bolts are spaced to offer clear protection, but the optional placements demand some adventurous spirit and small nuts or cams. Timing your ascent to avoid the midday sun keeps the granite pleasantly cool, enhancing friction and grip. Always double-check your anchors and rope management here since the anchors are fixed but compact.

Whether you’re testing your skills on varied protection setups or simply after an accessible climb within the San Bernardinos, Chinese Chicken delivers a dose of technical climbing that blends sport ease with practical gear knowledge. Bring sturdy shoes for confident edging, stay hydrated to counter dry mountain air, and enjoy a crisp day out where nature’s quiet presence guides every move upward.

Climber Safety

Watch footing on the small roof move, especially if the granite is damp or dusty. While bolts provide security, optional pro placements require good judgment; double-check before relying on cams in the horizontal crack. Approach trail is solid but be alert for loose stones near the base.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to avoid afternoon heat on the climb’s south-facing face.

Bring small to medium cams or nuts for optional protection in the horizontal crack.

Footwear with solid edging ability helps on the granite slabs beyond the crux.

Approach via Ant Trail Loop parking and follow trail markers to the base; trail is well-maintained and takes about 15 minutes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8, Chinese Chicken holds a moderate difficulty with a distinct crux over a small roof, adding an essential technical challenge that feels somewhat stiffer than a straightforward face climb at this grade. The route’s optional trad placements give it an added layer of complexity, setting it apart from nearby sport-only climbs.

Gear Requirements

Three bolts secure the route with optional medium-sized cams or nuts that can be placed above the crux roof, plus top anchors fixed for reliable belay.

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Tags

roof crux
optional trad gear
granite sport
single pitch
San Bernardino Mountains