Chimps in Negligee offers a brisk introduction to the Castle Rock Area’s rugged character, standing as a one-pitch test of focus and composure on solid California sandstone. Beginning with an uneasy 10-foot slab climb rated around 5.6, the route immediately challenges the leader’s nerve. The rock beneath your hands is coarse and reliable, but protection is sparse early on, thrusting you into a delicate dance of balance and precision before you reach the first bolt. As you edge onto the ledge, the terrain flattens briefly; however, this minimum respite only heightens anticipation for what comes next.

The climb’s signature move arrives soon after, when you pull over a well-guarded roof that demands careful foot placement and core tension. This crux, while not extensive, forces commitment: hesitation means falling back to the ledge below. A steady rhythm of easier slab sections follows, only to be interrupted by two more roofs, each capped by expertly placed bolts offering protection at critical points. For climbers standing at or beyond average height, the moves feel manageable, but the positioning of the clips elevates the mental game — every reach and smudge counts.

While the route is rated 5.9, the difficulty skews slightly softer, with most challenges stemming from spacing and exposure rather than pure finger strength or dynamic movement. This makes Chimps in Negligee an appealing step up for trad climbers venturing into harder terrain, yet it does demand respect and trust in your equipment and judgment. The cliff itself rises quietly amid the broader Castle Rock landscape — a playground of sandstone slabs and pockets edged with towering trees, carrying the scent of pine and the muted calls of distant birds.

Approach is straightforward, following well-marked trails through a shaded forest that cushions noise and temperature alike. A brisk 10-minute walk from the parking area positions you at the base of the crag, allowing ample time to prepare and check gear before engaging the route. The anchor at the top is solid, anchored by two bolts and easily accessible by scrambling around on a short, well-trodden path. Clean and precise, the climb rewards those who stay measured and deliberate.

Given the nature of the rock and the protection, this route benefits from cams in the .75 to 2 inch range, although opportunities to use them are limited beyond the bolts—bringing them ensures preparedness for any unexpected placements. Shoes with sticky rubber and sensitive edging will increase confidence on these slabby sections. Early morning climbs keep the rock cool and reduce glare, while afternoon sun can warm the face and expose every hold in sharp relief.

Chimps in Negligee delivers an adventure that combines mental grit with enough physical challenge to sharpen your trad instincts. For those familiar with the Castle Rock Area, it is a concise but spirited route, offering a rewarding climb without overwhelming commitment. Its subtle exposures and steady progression make it a great choice for climbers looking to bridge the gap from easy trad to more secure, controlled ascents.