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Chimère: A Two-Pitch Testpiece in the Laurentians

Val-David, Quebec Canada
trad climbing
two-pitch
granite
crack climbing
runout sections
Laurentians
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Chimère
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chimère is a demanding two-pitch trad route in the Laurentians that combines bouldering power moves, strategic gear placement, and a choice of adventurous finishes. This climb tests technique and mental grit amidst serene Quebec wilderness."

Chimère: A Two-Pitch Testpiece in the Laurentians

Chimère stands as a bold challenge perched within the Laurentians’ rugged contours near Val-David, Quebec. This two-pitch trad ascent balances technical demands and a raw connection to the rock, inviting climbers ready to blend finger strength and strategic gear placement. The route begins with a confident boulder move to reach the initial bolts, where careful gear placements are essential before tackling an overhang. Here, the rock pushes back with a sudden surge of physicality, demanding focus and control before settling onto a ledge that serves as a brief respite. From this point, climbers choose their adventure: follow the bolt line upwards in a direct but runout journey or link into the adjacent "Grande Randonnée Fédérale" anchor to ease the ascent into just two pitches—a highly recommended option for an efficient yet satisfying send.

Beyond the ledge, the climb unfolds through a horizontal crack that tests hand jams and footwork, peppered with well-placed bolts that offer moments of security without sacrificing the route's trad essence. The option to veer left leads toward "Cat's Ass," rated 5.10c, notable for its runout nature and demanding precision, which makes it a compelling extension only for the boldest. Chimère’s protection demands a solid set of Camalots up to #1, as bolts are sparse and strategically spaced. Each move requires a thoughtful blend of gear trust and personal endurance.

Set in an area marked by crisp granite faces and surrounded by the quiet pulse of the Laurentian wilderness, Chimère is an adventure that delivers both mental and physical engagement. The approach is accessible, keeping the journey fresh without eating up energy meant for the climb itself. Climbers will find the wall’s eastern orientation ideal for cool morning starts, escaping the summer heat while avoiding cold, damp conditions typical later in the season. Descending is straightforward with established anchors and clean rap stations, but attention to rope management and partner communication remains crucial.

For those seeking a climb that rewards delicate technique, route-finding savvy, and a taste of the Laurentians’ less-traveled crags, Chimère offers a compelling objective. It’s a route that respects tradition while challenging climbers to push their limits, all within a setting where nature’s quiet insistence on attentiveness sharpens every moment spent on the wall.

Climber Safety

Sparsely bolted with significant runout sections, Chimère demands solid trad gear instincts. Loose rock is minimal but remain cautious around the overhang ledge where falls could swing. Always double-check placements before hanging, and approach with clear communication on rap stations for a safe descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb in cool morning shade on the east-facing wall.

Focus on boulder moves at the start — warming up thoroughly is key.

Using the ‘Grande Randonnée Fédérale’ anchor to link pitches cuts exposure and saves energy.

Check your cams carefully and back up sparse bolts with careful gear placements.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11a PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11a grade feels true to its technical demands, with a crux at the overhang that requires precise footwork and firm commitment. The PG13 protection rating warns of potential runouts after initial bolts, so sustained mental focus and good gear placement make a big difference. Compared to other climbs in Val-David, Chimère offers a stiffer challenge with more sustained anxiety-inducing moves.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full set of Camalots up to #1 for essential placements. The route has few bolts, so solid trad protection skills are necessary to navigate runouts safely.

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Tags

trad climbing
two-pitch
granite
crack climbing
runout sections
Laurentians