Adventure Collective

Chico: A Straightforward Trad Introduction in Quebec's Laurentians

Val-David, Canada
classic
beginner-friendly
single-pitch
nut placements
top-rope anchor
quebec-limestone
gentle forest approach
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chico
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chico presents an inviting single-pitch trad climb in Quebec’s Laurentians, blending a manageable challenge with steady protection and easy stances. Ideal for climbers learning trad techniques, it rewards with solid granite and a peaceful forest setting."

Chico: A Straightforward Trad Introduction in Quebec's Laurentians

Chico offers an uncomplicated yet rewarding trad climbing experience set within the rolling Laurentians of Quebec, Canada. Situated near Val-David, this single-pitch route stretches about 80 feet, welcoming climbers eager to sharpen their trad skills on solid rock without the pressure of complexity. The climb begins with a modest crux, presenting an early challenge that quickly gives way to a consistent, straightforward line. Stances feel generous and well-formed, making it easy to pause, adjust gear, or simply absorb the serene surroundings.

The rock’s texture and angle shift subtly as you ascend, edging from gently sloped to slightly more vertical above the start—this transition justifies its 5.4 rating despite some local guides noting it closer to 5.3. The fixed anchors at the top allow a confident top-rope setup, accessible by a short trail to the left of the climb, giving climbers flexibility in how they engage with the route.

Protection placements come in frequent succession, helping beginners and intermediates develop comfort with gear placements and transitions. Expect ample nut placements particularly on the second half, where protection options open up and climbing remains secure. Although the very first moves might feel a bit sparse for a first piece, persistent attention reveals solid opportunities. The route invites climbers to move deliberately, reinforcing essential skills like gear placement and rope management while keeping the experience light and approachable.

Surrounding terrain is typical of Quebec’s Laurentians—dense forest crowns the base and frames the climb, while the air carries the crisp freshness of northern woods. The rock faces southward, catching early sun and warming up quickly, which makes spring and fall ideal seasons to visit. The short approach is straightforward, following well-worn trails that weave through gentle forest paths and patches of granite boulders.

Gear-wise, a standard trad rack covering a range of small to medium nuts and cams has you covered here. The route’s reliable protection and solid rock quality make it an excellent playground for practicing anchor building and gear placements away from more intimidating walls.

For those investing their afternoon in Chico, it’s a perfect stepping stone toward more varied and challenging climbs in the Laurentians. Its gentle complexity paired with natural beauty creates an accessible gateway to trad climbing for novices and a satisfying outing for more seasoned climbers seeking a relaxed session with practical focus.

Plan your visit with weather and daylight in mind—clear, dry days ensure the granite stays grippy, and the wooded approach trails remain safe and scenic. Don’t forget sturdy footwear for the trail and plenty of water for a comfortable stay. Whether you’re refreshing fundamentals or breaking into trad climbing, Chico delivers an honest, uncluttered experience rich with the rhythms of the northern forest.

Climber Safety

Pay close attention when placing your first piece on the start; while overall secure, the initial moves can be spaced slightly and require confident gear placement. Approach trails can be slippery after rain, so wear appropriate footwear and watch footing on forest paths.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail to the left leads directly to top-rope access; use it to scout the climb before leading.

Aim to climb during spring or early fall for ideal rock temperature and minimal insect disturbance.

Bring a standard trad rack focused on nuts and midsize cams; larger sizes are generally unnecessary.

Maintain awareness around the first moves—it’s the climb’s only crux and can feel tighter than expected.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.4
Quality
Consensus:Although local guides sometimes place Chico as a 5.3, the slightly steeper angle above the initial crux elevates it to a solid 5.4 rating. The route feels straightforward with no sustained cruxes, but the start demands focused attention on footwork and gear placement. This grade sits comfortably in the beginner trad range and compares well to other easy Laurentians climbs like those near Val-David’s climbing areas.

Gear Requirements

Fixed anchors atop the route provide safe top-rope setups, with trad protection placements available along the entire wall. Nut placements are abundant on the upper section, while the initial moves require some attentive gear searching. A range of small to medium cams and nuts will cover all protection needs.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Chico and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

classic
beginner-friendly
single-pitch
nut placements
top-rope anchor
quebec-limestone
gentle forest approach