Rising from the rugged walls of Halfway Rock in 10 Mile Canyon, Chicken Spider stands out as a compelling 5.9 sport route that blends clean, accessible climbing with just enough challenge to excite both emerging and seasoned climbers. The climb begins with a subtle, sharpened arete that guides you upward before unfurling into a steeper face, where the crux demands precise footwork and confident movement. As you ascend the 70-foot single pitch, the rock offers excellent texture—solid and consistent, without the clutter of loose debris or vegetation to interrupt your flow. Drawing higher allows for a little breathing room, but longer draws can help avoid rope drag near the anchors that are shared with the nearby Boomerang route.

The setting of Halfway Rock offers more than just rock; the surrounding canyon walls tell of time’s quiet craftsmanship, framing your ascent with wide views of the Colorado backcountry. The route’s bolts and anchors are well maintained, providing solid protection while allowing you to focus on the climbing sequences. Given its moderate length and manageable difficulty, Chicken Spider is a great choice for climbers looking to push into solid 5.9 terrain with the reliability of sport protection and clear movement.

Access to Chicken Spider is straightforward, with a short approach along well-kept trails that thread through open pinyon pine and scrub oak. The climb’s orientation catches the morning sun, warming the rock and making early starts especially inviting during cooler seasons. The surrounding canyon creates a natural amphitheater that softens the wind and enhances the sounds of nature—bird calls, the occasional breeze through the trees—inviting focus and rhythm on the rock.

For those preparing to send Chicken Spider, bring a well-graded rack of quickdraws including a couple of longer draws to ease clipping above the crux. Footwear with solid edging ability will serve well on the face sections, where edges and small crimps demand silence and precision. Water and sun protection are essential as shade here tends to be patchy, especially in the heat of summer.

Overall, Chicken Spider strikes a balance of accessibility and rewarding difficulty. It’s a prime example of 10 Mile Canyon’s sport offerings: approachable enough for confident intermediates but engaging for more experienced climbers looking to refine their technique on dependable rock. The climb’s single pitch structure makes it a perfect half-day excursion or a solid warm-up before exploring other lines in the area.

Whether carving through the clean arete or pushing past the final crux, Chicken Spider provides a fulfilling climb framed by Colorado’s raw natural beauty—clear, practical, and never without an element of thrill.