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Chicken Out Arete

Glenwood Springs, Colorado United States
trad
arete
single-pitch
finger-crack
mantle
moderate
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chicken Out Arete
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chicken Out Arete offers a moderate trad climb in Glenwood Canyon, combining technical face moves with a secure rack of bolts and cams. Its accessible approach and dynamic climbing make it a compelling choice for climbers looking to bridge into more challenging routes."

Chicken Out Arete

Chicken Out Arete presents a compelling option for trad climbers seeking a moderate yet rewarding challenge in the Glenwood Canyon area. Situated on the northwest edge of Fountain Buttress near Glenwood Springs, Colorado, this climb offers a relatively accessible alternative to the more demanding Railroad Arete, yet it retains distinct character and technical interest. The route begins by engaging the prominent arete itself, secured with two bolts that mark the crux. From the base, climbers confront a mantle move onto a narrow ledge above the second bolt—a transition where a long sling can prove handy. From there, the line veers right, guiding you toward a thin crack perched on the arete demanding precise finger jams and careful footwork. Protecting this section with a #1 Camalot is advisable before negotiating several steep moves that test balance and commitment.

Continuing upward, the climb eases into a ramp guarded by a wide crack, offering a brief respite as you gain elevation. This segment moves smoothly but calls for attention to gear placements, as protection opportunities are generous but require proper sizing. Near the ramp’s top, the route shifts right onto the face adorned with quirky, pocketed holds that invite finger locks and clever movement. Here, placing finger-sized protection is critical to maintain safety on the exposed face before navigating the final moves. The climb concludes by rejoining the familiar Railroad Tracks Cracks near the shared anchor, rewarding you with expansive views of the canyon below.

Aside from its physical demands, Chicken Out Arete also engages the senses—the warm sun dappling the rock in the afternoon, the whisper of wind threading through the surrounding pines, and the distant hum of the Colorado River reminding you of the wild landscape encasing this crag. While moderate in difficulty at 5.8, the climb’s rock quality and protection options make it a solid choice for climbers stepping up their game or seeking a durable classic with character.

The approach to this climb is straightforward: a well-marked trail from the parking area gains about 15 minutes of easy hiking on firm footing before reaching the base of the buttress. With a single pitch stretching approximately 60 feet, the route fits perfectly into a half-day outing, allowing time for multiple ascents or exploring nearby lines.

Proper preparation calls for standard trad rack gear up to 3 or 4 inches, as well as a few slings to extend protection around the arete. Being quick and confident on mantle moves will help conserve energy at the crux. Given the exposure and proximity to the river, bringing sufficient water and sun protection is essential, especially during summer months when heat can intensify on the south-facing wall.

Chicken Out Arete balances adventure and approachability, delivering an engaging climb that tests technique without overwhelming. Its unique line and scenic setting ensure it remains a favorite for both local climbers and visitors passing through Glenwood Springs, an area known for its diversity of outdoor pursuits and natural beauty.

Climber Safety

While the route is well protected with bolts and cams, be cautious during the mantle moves onto the narrow ledge, as the footholds are small and exposure increases. Rock quality is solid but watch for loose debris on the ledges during descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the direct sun on the face.

Use a long sling above the second bolt to reduce rope drag on mantle moves.

Bring finger-sized cams for protection on the pocketed face near the top.

Carry enough water and sunscreen, especially on hot summer days.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:At a 5.8, this route offers moderate difficulty, with the crux mantle and initial arete moves providing the stiffest moments. The grade feels appropriate for the technical demands—neither overly soft nor artificially tough—but climbers should be comfortable with delicate footwork and protecting thin cracks.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack up to 3 or 4 inches along with a couple of long slings to extend protection around the arete. Two bolts secure the crux, but cam placements on finger cracks and wide cracks are essential throughout.

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Tags

trad
arete
single-pitch
finger-crack
mantle
moderate