Chicken Heart offers a brisk, technically demanding trad climb that challenges precision and mental focus on every move. Located in the rugged Lunch Rock area above Mission Gorge, this single-pitch route requires careful footwork on smooth, slick holds and confident gear placements. From the belay ledge, set just above the trail, climbers face a sequence of tricky moves past two bolts embedded in deceptively slippery rock. The protection opportunities are sparse but adequate, demanding climbers carry a well-rounded rack with small cams to secure the crux—particularly in the right-facing dihedral section that caps the climb. Attention to detail is essential here; the rock’s polished texture tests your grip and balance, lending a sharp, adventurous edge to every hand and foot jam.

As you ascend, the right-facing dihedral shapes a natural line that feels both protective and exposed, inviting a measured rhythm as you work gear placements and weight shifts. The climb finishes at a spacious, slanting ledge, where a two-bolt anchor provides a secure rap station. The descent is straightforward but requires respect—double-check anchors and plan your rappel carefully to avoid loose rock below. Scenic views of the surrounding chaparral and rocky outcrops frame the climb, offering a moment to catch your breath before returning to the trail.

Whether you’re stepping up into Lunch Rock’s trad scene for the first time or honing your lead skills, Chicken Heart remains an approachable yet formidable testpiece. It rewards climbers who come prepared with steady technique, a compact rack, and a readiness to engage directly with the rock’s subtle textures. Weather in this part of San Diego County favors early mornings or late afternoons to avoid the midday sun, while the spring and fall seasons provide optimal temperatures for this exposed granite face. Keep an eye on traction and route condition, especially after rare local rainfalls, when the rock’s slickness is at its peak.

Chicken Heart doesn’t offer long hours of climbing, but its blend of technical moves and precise gear use packs a memorable punch within a quick 30-foot vertical rise. Its place in this less crowded corner of San Diego climbing terrain makes it a valuable addition to your trad portfolio, bridging the gap between beginner trad routes and more committing multi-pitch objectives scattered across the region.