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Chibougamau with Love: A Raw 5.9 Trad Crack in Quebec's Wild North

Chibougamau, Quebec Canada
crack climbing
trad gear
single pitch
vantage views
wildlife proximity
northern wilderness
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chibougamau with Love
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chibougamau with Love offers a sharp 5.9 crack climb threading through the raw northern Quebec wilderness. This compact trad route combines technical jams with quiet solitude, perfect for climbers seeking a focused, thoughtful ascent surrounded by nature's subtle energy."

Chibougamau with Love: A Raw 5.9 Trad Crack in Quebec's Wild North

In the heart of Quebec’s rugged northern wilderness lies Chibougamau with Love, a bold single-pitch trad climb that demands both respect and precision. This route chisels its way up a distinct, well-defined crack located just a couple of meters to the right of a sharp dihedral, its sheer vertical split inviting climbers to engage directly with the rock’s natural features. As you approach, you might catch the watchful eyes of a raven’s nest perched nearby—a quiet reminder that this route is not only a physical challenge but part of a living ecosystem.

The climb stretches about 50 feet, offering a focused burst of verticality that tests technique and mental grit without overstaying its welcome. Graded at 5.9, it strikes a balance: approachable enough for those stepping into trad climbing but with just enough bite to captivate seasoned climbers. The crack demands clean hand and finger jams, inviting you to feel every texture and betrayal of the stone.

Protection here involves traditional gear placements, with a bolted anchor providing a reassuring end to the ascent. The rock favors good gear judgment—protection pockets can be tight, emphasizing the need for a selection of medium to small cams and nuts to confidently secure your progress. The route's isolated location amid the northern Quebec landscape offers a rare combination of wilderness and manageable access, perfect for climbers seeking to merge focused climbing with the quiet pulse of nature.

Approaching the climb involves a trek through forests that shift from dense spruce stands to lighter birch groves, the ground carpeted with moss and needles that cushion your steps. The air carries the crisp scent of pine mixed with earthy freshness, while the occasional call of ravens punctuates the silence. The trail is straightforward but demands attention to footing, with moderate elevation gain ensuring you arrive warmed but not spent.

Chibougamau with Love invites climbers into a moment of pure interaction with stone and wilderness, where every move is a conversation with the cracks and corners of the ancient rock face. Be mindful of the seasonal presence of raven nests early in the season—a nod to the mountain’s subtle but tangible life beyond human footprints. Climbing best in late spring through early fall, the route enjoys good sun exposure in the morning, cooling into shade by afternoon, which helps in managing grip and endurance as temperatures fluctuate.

Whether you’re looking to sharpen your crack climbing skills, savor a remote outing, or simply stand quietly next to one of Quebec’s northern cliffs, this route offers a refreshing climb with a practical, straightforward approach. Prepare with layered clothing, bring a full rack tailored for finger-to-hand sized protection, and allow time to soak in the quiet grandeur of this less-traveled climbing spot.

Climber Safety

Watch for the raven’s nest near the start, especially in early season; maintain a respectful distance to minimize wildlife disturbance. The rock quality is good but protection placements can sometimes be snug—double-check gear stability before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Arrive prepared for cooler northern temperatures; layering is key.

Be cautious around the raven’s nest early in the season to avoid disturbing wildlife.

Plan your climb in the morning for ideal sunlight and warmer rock conditions.

Bring shoes optimized for crack climbing to maximize jam efficiency.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grading on this route is solid but approachable, with a clean crux centered in the finger-to-hand jam sequences. The rating respects the technical precision required, though the sustained nature of the crack demands focus. Compared to nearby climbs in the region, it offers a straightforward challenge without unexpected difficulty spikes.

Gear Requirements

A well-rounded trad rack focused on medium to small cams and nuts is essential to safely protect this crack. The climb finishes on a bolted anchor, providing a secure top-out. Pay special attention to the crack width for optimal gear placements.

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Tags

crack climbing
trad gear
single pitch
vantage views
wildlife proximity
northern wilderness