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Chewbacca: Classic 5.8 Trad Climb in Cracked Canyon

Telluride, Colorado United States
left-facing corner
roof crux
single-pitch
bolted anchor
classic 5.8
crack climbing
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chewbacca
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chewbacca presents a classic 5.8 trad climb carved into Cracked Canyon’s rocky embrace. This single-pitch line offers a beautiful left-facing corner with a memorable roof crux and solid protection, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Telluride area."

Chewbacca: Classic 5.8 Trad Climb in Cracked Canyon

Rising sharply from the rugged walls of Cracked Canyon, Chewbacca offers a pure and focused 5.8 trad climb that balances straightforward moves with a memorable crux near its roof. Situated just across from the well-known Orange Peel, this left-facing corner challenges climbers with a mix of finger-sized cracks and powerful face climbing that demands both technique and composure. The route sits a few hundred feet from the canyon’s mouth, where the granite bears the marks of weather and time, its textured surface inviting hands and feet to find purchase. Early on, an awkward lower section tests your positioning and footwork, but it's the pull over the roof—where body tension meets precise gear placements—that many recognize as the climb’s defining moment. Bolts top out the route, giving a secure anchor to belay your second, while the rappel descent calls for care: a solitary tree about 15 feet right of the line leads down over Dog Leg and Come On Sun, requiring attention to rope management and route finding.

Your gear rack for Chewbacca leans on a full set of cams to 3 inches and a solid selection of stoppers, enabling confident protection in the moderately featured crack system. However, caution is crucial near the roof’s right side—there resides a notably loose block, a reminder that not all stone here embraces trust. Attempts to use the slender 0.5 inch crack for protection cause the entire corner to flex, making it an unreliable placement zone. Climbers familiar with this route recommend steering clear of that slot to maintain safety and integrity throughout the climb.

Chewbacca’s setting in the Colorado high country means you’re climbing in crisp air, often offset by warming rays on the granite face. Early mornings and late afternoons offer the best light and temperature balance, with summer mornings being prime for a climb that avoids the harsh midday sun. Expect the approach to be a short, steady hike in rugged terrain, crossing open rock ledges and scattered stands of piñon pine. A quick pulse in your legs gets you grounded in the canyon’s quiet pulse before you settle into the vertical challenge.

With its modest pitch length of 90 feet, Chewbacca is an accessible yet rewarding climb that fits well into a day of exploring the Telluride/Norwood area’s diverse offerings. Experienced climbers appreciate the route’s blend of crack skills and subtle face moves, making it an excellent testpiece that rewards precision and calm at exposure. Its location within the broader Cracked Canyon area means you’re surrounded by sweeping views and the quiet presence of mountain air, lending each move a heightened sense of connection with the natural world around you.

Keep in mind that descent requires focus and some route knowledge—the rappel tree is not directly at the top anchor and venturing off route could lead to loose rock or unstable footing. Planning your rappel carefully ensures the return is as smooth as the climb itself. Chewbacca shines as a classic Colorado trad climb that offers more than just the physical challenge—it invites you into a measured dance with granite shaped by time, where every hold has a story and every step is a piece of adventure unfolded.

Climber Safety

Watch for a large loose block positioned just right of the roof near the top; never place gear in the narrow crack beside it, as it flexes dangerously. The descent rappel tree is off-route and requires careful navigation to avoid loose rock and exposure.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Scout and avoid the loose block right of the roof to prevent dangerous rockfall.

Use the bolts at the top for a secure belay and rappel from the nearby tree.

Start early in the morning to enjoy cooler temperatures and avoid afternoon sun.

Pack a rack that includes small to medium cams and a full set of nuts for reliable protection.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating generally feels accurate, though the roof crux adds a punching move that bumps the intensity. It’s not overly stiff but rewards precise movement and solid crack technique. Compared to nearby climbs like Orange Peel, Chewbacca leans more on crack skills with fewer sustained face holds.

Gear Requirements

A complete set of cams up to 3 inches combined with a single set of stoppers covers the protection needs. Avoid placing gear in the 0.5 inch crack near the roof due to instability. Bolts at the top provide a reliable belay station.

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Tags

left-facing corner
roof crux
single-pitch
bolted anchor
classic 5.8
crack climbing