HomeClimbingCheekbone Corner Direct

Cheekbone Corner Direct: A Bold Two-Pitch Trad Challenge in Welsford

Welsford, Canada
off-width
multi-pitch
trad gear
north-facing
big cams
campus move
pigeon ledge
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Cheekbone Corner Direct
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cheekbone Corner Direct challenges climbers with two gripping pitches that combine off-width tightness and bold, overhanging moves. This trad climb in Welsford’s Cochrane Lane Cliffs offers a gritty, hands-on adventure with thoughtful gear placements and a memorable finish beneath treetops."

Cheekbone Corner Direct: A Bold Two-Pitch Trad Challenge in Welsford

Cheekbone Corner Direct stands as a straightforward yet gritty two-pitch trad climb carved into the rugged cliffs of Cochrane Lane, near Welsford, New Brunswick. Offering a raw edge of adventure, this route shifts from a steady, blocky scramble into a demanding off-width corner that dares climbers to test their commitment and technique. The first pitch starts just below the recognizable Cheekbone Boulder, where a short scramble delivers you to a broad ledge. From there, the climb hits an obvious off-width corner that demands precise placements and full-body engagement. Protection here leans heavily on slinging natural chockstones and possibly a big cam for the trickier sections, with carefully spaced PG-rated gear protecting the latter half of the pitch. After 100 feet of climbing, you reach a bolted anchor suspended beneath an overhanging dihedral — a clear reminder of the route's sustained challenge.

The second pitch ups the ante, climbing directly up a steep, overhanging dihedral that pulls you into an exposed, pigeon-heavy ledge. The guidebook cautions about the "Pigeon shit ledge," where a leftward traverse around an intimidating overhanging needle requires bold movement and precise campus-style footwork. Climbers who dare this move are rewarded with a direct line to a grove of trees crowning the top of the cliff. This pitch measures roughly 100 feet and offers a continuous climb rated 5.7 G, demanding confidence and route-finding awareness.

Accessing Cheekbone Corner Direct is manageable but not without effort. The approach involves a short but occasionally rugged hike from locally known access points near Welsford, with GPS coordinates situating you at latitude 45.4419 and longitude -66.297. The terrain transitions from forest floor to exposed rock, with a mix of dirt and loose blocks underfoot, so solid footwear and a steady pace are key to arriving fresh and ready.

Descending can be done by rappelling from the fixed anchors, including both the route’s own chains and those at the nearby Strata Factor stations. Alternatively, a walk-off to the right offers a quicker but still cautionary exit. Given the cliff's layout and local conditions, this descent demands attention to avoid loose rock and slippery sections, especially in wet or icy weather.

Cheekbone Corner Direct is a route that balances exhilaration with responsibility. Its ratings warn of potential runouts and the need for solid crack climbing skills, making it well suited for climbers who appreciate a hands-on approach to protection and movement. It’s a climb that brings you close to the raw character of New Brunswick’s outdoor rock, where nature sits robust and unpretentious.

Prepare for this route by packing a rack with a solid range of cams, including larger sizes for the off-width, and plenty of slings to secure the natural gear placements. Climbers should also come prepared with approaches shoes or lightweight boots, water, and layered clothing to adjust to shifting weather, as the north-facing cliffs can hold chill even in summer months. Best attempts happen in dry weather, and arriving earlier in the day helps avoid afternoon shade and the cold that follows.

This climb invites you to step up into a demanding but rewarding trad experience, where every move feels earned and every placement matters. From the gritty off-width start to the thrilling campus move past the overhanging needle, Cheekbone Corner Direct embodies the spirit of rugged, committed New Brunswick climbing.

Climber Safety

Careful gear placements are crucial, especially in the off-width corner where runouts increase risk. The ledge beneath the overhanging needle can be cluttered with slippery pigeon guano — approach with caution. Loose rock is present on the approach and descent, so maintain secure footing and avoid climbing in wet conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon chill as the cliff faces north.

Be prepared for loose blocks on the approach trail.

Use gloves for the off-width placements to protect your hands.

Scout the pigeon ledge carefully before committing to the campus move.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.7 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.7 R rating reflects credible runout risk on the first pitch’s off-width corner and the technical demands of the second pitch’s overhanging dihedral. While the grade itself sits comfortably in moderate territory, the route’s protection quality and rock features require calm, experienced climbing. Compared to nearby routes in Cochrane Lane, this climb holds a slight edge in commitment due to its runout sections and exposure.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack with a focus on off-width sized protection, including large cams and slings for chockstones. Fixed anchors at belays facilitate safe rappelling.

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Tags

off-width
multi-pitch
trad gear
north-facing
big cams
campus move
pigeon ledge