5.7, Sport
Calabogie
Ontario ,Canada
"Cheat Stick offers a straightforward single-pitch sport climb in Ontario’s Mid Cliff Area, blending approachable movement with secure protection. Ideal for newcomers to lead climbing seeking a well-bolted route with subtle technical sequences."
Cheat Stick stands as an inviting challenge for those stepping into sport climbing, offering a direct yet thoughtfully varied route along the solid rock faces of Ontario’s Mid Cliff Area. This single-pitch, 5.7 climb unfolds over a moderate height where experienced climbers will appreciate the balance of steady holds and subtly shifting moves, particularly between the fourth and fifth bolts. The rock is smooth but confident beneath your fingers, providing enough texture to test your footwork without overwhelming beginners.
Arriving at Calabogie within the Southern Ontario bouldering and climbing scene, this route sits comfortably in the Main Cliff section, a place where the rock seems to patiently encourage deliberate, methodical climbing. Surrounded by gentle slopes and wide-open skies, the approach is manageable and familiar to locals but rewarding for visitors eager to experience a classic beginner lead climb.
Protection is straightforward with six well-placed glue-in bolts securing the line, ensuring safety without excess gear fuss. The fixed anchors at the top wrap up the climb, making for a clean, efficient descent. This setup allows climbers to focus on movement and body positioning, especially in that subtle sequence mid-route where balance and precision are key to feeling steady and in control.
For anyone planning their visit, keep in mind the rock’s exposure to sun and wind, which can shift conditions quickly. Early mornings or late afternoons often bring the best climbing temperatures, letting the stone cool just enough to sharpen grips. Footwear with solid edging capabilities will serve best here, as will hydration for the short but focused effort.
More than just a simple path up the rock, Cheat Stick invites a direct conversation with the stone, asking for concentration without demanding extreme power. It’s an accessible slice of Ontario climbing that rewards respect and attention, a quiet highlight for those learning to lead and to read the rock with intent.
Although the bolts are solid, climbers should keep an eye on foot placements where the rock can be slightly slick. The fixed anchors are reliable, but always double-check before committing to the rappels. Seasonal moss or damp patches may appear after rain, increasing slip risk.
Start early or late in the day to avoid overheating on the exposed rock face.
Wear climbing shoes with reliable edging for the technical moves between bolts four and five.
Hydrate well—while the climb is short, the exposed area can dry you out quickly.
Approach the crux calmly; the subtle nuances in movement require focus, not force.
Six glue-in bolts provide straightforward protection, finished with fixed anchors atop for safe and easy top-rope set-ups or rappels.
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