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Chauve-souris: A Quiet Trad Route at Lac Blanc's Left End

Saint-Donat, Canada
left-facing corner
open book
flake crack
bolted anchor
moderate trad
single pitch
slab climbing
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chauve-souris
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chauve-souris is a single-pitch trad climb at Lac Blanc’s Left End that blends thoughtful protection with engaging movement along an open book feature. Its approachable 5.6 grade makes it a perfect option for those starting their trad adventure or seeking a quiet, scenic climb in Quebec's Lanaudiere region."

Chauve-souris: A Quiet Trad Route at Lac Blanc's Left End

Chauve-souris offers an approachable introduction to traditional climbing framed by the rugged terrain of Lac Blanc's Left End. This single-pitch, 50-foot climb weaves along a ledge system about ten feet above the cliff’s base, drawing you into a careful traverse that tests balance and situational awareness right from the start. The route opens with a small left-facing corner that leads to a left-leaning crack and flake perched on a slab, presenting moderate technical moves and solid handholds. The climb’s highlight, an open book formed by the intersection of two rock faces, demands precise footwork and steady body positioning as you make your way to the top.

At the summit, climbers face a choice: step left or right to reach a bolted anchor that provides a secure rappel. The rock here has enough texture to inspire confidence, though small flakes remind you to remain vigilant with gear placement along the way. This route rewards thoughtful protection strategy, and a standard trad rack suffices to navigate its natural features.

Lac Blanc's environment commands respect with its cool mountain air carrying the scent of conifers and the distant murmur of wind weaving through the trees. The cliff feels alive, the rock almost daring you to move with intent and precision. A gentle breeze brushes past, cooling flushed skin and sharpening focus as you climb.

This segment of the climbing area is part of the larger Lanaudiere region in Quebec, known for its quiet granite faces and accessible yet rewarding climbs. The left end of Lac Blanc provides a less trafficked experience, making it a perfect setting for climbers who value solitude mixed with technical challenge. The approach is straightforward, a short trek that brings you to the base quickly, keeping energy reserved for the climb itself.

Given its 5.6 rating, Chauve-souris suits beginners gaining confidence on traditional gear placements and seasoned climbers looking for a relaxed warm-up. Timing your visit in late spring through early fall enhances the experience, as the face catches sunlight in the afternoon, warming the rock without baking it.

Bring footwear with sticky rubber and ensure you pack a rack geared for small to medium nuts and cams, as the protection opportunities require a careful eye. Staying hydrated is key, especially after your approach hike and while managing the mental focus needed on the traverse section. The descent via bolted rappel is uncomplicated but demands attention to rope management and anchors.

Chauve-souris delivers both natural beauty and a tangible connection to the rock, engaging body and mind in equal measure. It’s a climb that encourages measured movement — a place to tune into the cliff's subtle conversations and emerge with a quiet sense of accomplishment.

Climber Safety

While the rock is generally solid, some small flakes require careful attention when placing gear. The approach ledge is narrow, so maintain solid footwork and balance moving in from the right. Always inspect the fixed bolted anchors before rappelling.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the right side ledge system; it leads directly to the climb's base about ten feet up.

Late spring through early fall offers the best climbing window with manageable temperatures and stable rock conditions.

Sticky-soled shoes improve grip on the slabby sections of the route.

Double-check placements on small flakes; while solid, they require caution and steady hands.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 rating fits well with the route’s moderate technical demands and short length. The tricky traverse at the start adds a neat challenge without pushing beyond moderate difficulty. Climbers familiar with similar Quebec climbs will find the grade consistent and straightforward, though the open book crack brings a fun physical movement that slightly elevates the effort.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack focused on small to medium-sized nuts and cams. The protection opportunities follow natural cracks and flakes, requiring confident gear placement. The anchored rappel at the top simplifies descent but demands careful rope handling.

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Tags

left-facing corner
open book
flake crack
bolted anchor
moderate trad
single pitch
slab climbing