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Chauve-souris 2 Trad Climb at Lac Blanc

Saint-Donat, Canada
crack climbing
trad gear
single pitch
moderate difficulty
flake
groove
bolted anchor
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chauve-souris 2
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A steady trad climb at Lac Blanc’s quieter left end, Chauve-souris 2 challenges climbers with a shifting crack system and groove that requires controlled technique and solid gear placements. Its manageable 5.7 rating makes it a fitting route for those honing crack skills in a peaceful natural setting."

Chauve-souris 2 Trad Climb at Lac Blanc

Chauve-souris 2 offers a focused and engaging trad climbing experience at the quieter left end of Lac Blanc’s northern wall. From the foothold, the route invites climbers to work through an intermittent crack and groove system that demands a blend of careful hand jams and technical footwork. As you ascend, the rock’s texture shifts beneath your fingers, alternating between rough slabs and more defined cracks, creating a dynamic sequence that tests movement precision more than brute strength.

The climb starts by veering right from the typical Chauve-souris approach, moving up a left-angling flake before navigating a corner groove etched into the rock face. This groove is the climbing’s spine, leading steadily upward to a distinct hand crack set deeper inside the corner, where confident placements reward steady poise. The route culminates by powering through a left-facing flake to reach a bolted anchor atop a comfortable ledge, offering a moment to absorb the surrounding forested slopes and distant hills.

While modest in length and rating, the route’s character lies in its balance of protection needs and route-find strategy. A standard rack with duplicated cam sizes from 0.75 to 2 Camalots will serve well here, as placements fluctuate between secure finger cracks and wider hands. The bolted anchors provide reassuring security at the top, allowing climbers to focus fully on the climbing without gear anxiety.

For those planning their day at Lac Blanc, the approach is straightforward but requires attentiveness as you traverse uneven terrain typical of the Contreforts area. Expect a brief hike through mixed woods and granite outcrops that gradually open up to reveal the climb’s wall.

Chauve-souris 2 suits intermediate climbers looking to sharpen crack climbing skills in a setting that emphasizes nature’s subtle challenges rather than overpowering difficulties. The mix of crack sizes and the flow of the groove offer a tactile dialogue with the rock, encouraging measured patience and precise movement. Ultimately, it delivers a rewarding outing that feels both manageable and enriching, framed by the crisp Quebec air and the calm presence of Lac Blanc below.

Climber Safety

While the route is well protected, pay attention to gear placements in flake and groove sections where the crack widens or thins unexpectedly. The rock can be slippery when damp, especially on the slabby approach moves. The descent requires careful attention at the bolted anchor to rig a safe rappel.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach on well-marked trails through mixed forest; watch for uneven footing.

Use sticky rubber shoes for the slabby sections to ensure solid foot placement.

Start climbs mid-morning or early afternoon to avoid cold rock in mornings.

Bring a lightweight rack with doubles in the mid-range sizes for smooth protection.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.7
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.7, Chauve-souris 2 leans towards a moderate trad climb where the challenge lies more in gear placement and route-finding than physical difficulty. The grade feels true to standard; however, the intermittent nature of the crack demands attentive footwork and patience. Compared to other routes in the Lac Blanc area, it sits comfortably for those solid with hand cracks but not yet ready for sustained harder climbs.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack, focusing on duplicates in Camalot sizes 0.75 to 2 for reliable placements along the crack and groove. The route finishes at a bolted anchor for secure top-rope or rappel setups.

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Tags

crack climbing
trad gear
single pitch
moderate difficulty
flake
groove
bolted anchor