"Chateau de Cartes offers a sharp, demanding trad climb just right of Rallye, with technical crack sequences and solid natural protection. This 100-foot pitch delivers a precise test of skill and patience on Quebec’s granite walls."
Chateau de Cartes stands as a striking single-pitch trad climb set within Quebec’s diverse climbing landscape, offering a gritty and focused test on quality natural gear. Positioned just steps away from the popular Rallye and Belle de Loin routes, this wall demands attention with its clean cracks and technical moves. Starting two meters right of Rallye, the climb opens with a sharp crack that immediately tests your ability to read the rock and place gear efficiently. The route follows a corner beneath a low roof — a move that requires tension and precision to navigate without losing rhythm. Reaching the ledge, you’ll encounter an old bolt, a remnant that hints at the route’s rich climbing history, but the real challenge lies ahead.
Beyond the ledge, the wall pushes upwards past a small bulge where delicate footwork and steady hands keep you balanced. The climbing subtly shifts slightly left before aiming straight for the twin cracks that finish the climb. These parallel fissures demand confident jamming and controlled moves, sealing the route’s reputation as a test for those comfortable in traditional protection and crack climbing techniques.
The rock here is solid and offers a reliable surface for placements, but the protection requires thoughtful consideration — thin cams and a range of nuts will serve you best on this line. The setting, perched within the Northern Area’s distinctive granite formations, provides an immersive outdoor moment with the quiet energy of Lac Long nearby, a calm contrast to the physical strain of the ascent.
Weather in this region calls for early starts in spring and fall, when temperatures are cool and the rock is grippy. Summer afternoons tend to be warmer, but the climb’s northern aspect offers decent shade, making it manageable even when the sun rises high. Approaching Chateau de Cartes involves a moderate hike with some uneven terrain; plan for good footwear and enough water, as the area is lightly trafficked and remote enough to feel like a private session.
Ideal for climbers pushing into the 5.10 range who crave clear, compact routes that reward technical skill and steady nerves rather than brute force, Chateau de Cartes is a hidden jewel worth seeking. With only one pitch but significant moves, it fits perfectly into a busy day’s agenda, promising both the satisfaction of a well-earned send and the quiet beauty of Quebec's rugged backcountry.
Watch for the old bolt at the ledge, which cannot be trusted for crucial protection. Careful rack selection and solid placements are key for safe ascent, as the protection is strictly natural. Always double-check gear placements before committing to harder moves.
Start early in the day to avoid warming sun on the northern-facing wall.
Bring a rack that includes small to mid-sized cams for optimal placement options.
Hydrate well before the approach, as water sources are scarce.
Wear stiff-soled climbing shoes to handle the technical crack jams efficiently.
Be prepared with a full rack of natural protection, emphasizing smaller cams and a varied nut selection. The cracks offer solid placements, but spacing requires careful gear evaluation. The old bolt at the ledge remains but do not rely on it for key protection.
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