"Chasing Sticks offers a blunt slab challenge on Surprising Crag’s South Face with sparse, awkward bolt placements that test your balance and mental grit. Ideal for climbers ready to refine slab technique in Boulder’s accessible Sport Park."
Chasing Sticks offers a direct, gritty slice of Boulder climbing that tests your patience as much as your technique. Located on the South Face of Surprising Crag, this single-pitch sport route sits three climbs right of Choss Temple Pilots, carving out a challenging line on a slab marked by sparse, awkwardly placed bolts. The first bolt sits 15 to 20 feet above the starting stance, reachable only after a strenuous, unprotected move—a stretch that demands both commitment and confidence in your footwork. Above, the second bolt perches just two feet higher, creating a tight, almost hesitant rhythm to clipping that can frustrate those expecting a smooth, continuous flow. Despite these challenges, the rock itself rewards with solid texture and pockets that invite precise smearing and balance-focused movement.
The route’s setting at The Sport Park—a well-known climbing area within Boulder Canyon—offers an exposed wall that drinks in sun for most of the day, warming up the slab surface and making it an ideal spot for climbs in cooler weather. The approach here is straightforward, a short but steady walk from the trailhead that runs along Boulder Creek, surrounded by pine and fir trees whose needles crunch underfoot. This accessibility makes it a popular stop for climbers working on their sport crag skills or scouting new lines.
Gear requirements are minimal yet specific. Six quick draws suffice for protection, but the hit-or-miss bolt placements require climbers to be precise and deliberate with their clipping strategy. Avoid relying on the first bolt as a rest; it’s placed precariously high, testing your ability to stay calm on slab terrain before the anchor. Though the climb is rated a moderate 5.9, the unusual bolt spacing and slab nature add a layer of mental challenge that elevates the experience beyond numbers alone.
Climbers should prepare for variable rock conditions. While the face holds firm overall, attention is needed around the bolt edges where weathering has softened the stone slightly. Wearing climbing shoes with excellent edging capacity will enhance balance and stability. Hydration and sun protection are essential, especially in warmer months, as the wall offers little shade and the approach trail, while short, isn’t heavily shaded either. Early morning or late afternoon provides the most comfortable conditions to avoid peak heat.
Descending is simple—a rappel from fixed anchors at the top, but climbers must check ring conditions before trusting the bolts. Pro tip: double-check all anchor hardware and approach the rappel with care to avoid loose rock on the descent path.
Chasing Sticks doesn’t offer a polished sport climb experience, but it challenges climbers to engage fully with the rock and refine their slab skills. For Boulder locals craving a relentless slab test, it’s a brief but meaningful encounter that sharpens focus and balance, perfect for those who appreciate routes with a bit of rough-around-the-edges character. Approach it prepared, stay patient, and let the face guide your rhythm.
Bolt placement forces long reaches low on the route, exposing climbers to potential ground falls if confidence wavers. The bolts show some weathering near their edges, so always double-check gear and anchors before relying on them fully.
Approach via the Sport Park trailhead—it's a short 10-minute walk through pine and fir woods.
Climb early or late in the day to avoid the unshaded wall baking in the sun.
Double-check fixed anchors before rappelling; erosion has affected bolt edges.
Wear shoes with excellent edging for confident footholds on slab terrain.
Bring six quickdraws for protection. The bolts require precise clipping—expect a long reach to the first bolt up the slab, and closely spaced second bolt just above. Shoes with strong edging capabilities will help you manage the slab moves.
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