"Chasing Stanly on The Bottom Wall demands power from the first moves, then shifts into a technical dance of precision and balance. This 50-foot sport route in Oregon Jack challenges climbers to blend strength and subtlety on solid rock with reliable quickdraw protection."
Chasing Stanly on The Bottom Wall of Oregon Jack offers a compact but intense climbing experience that challenges both your power and finesse in a high-energy 50-foot pitch. Located just outside Kamloops, British Columbia, this route rises sharply, greeting climbers with two distinct launching boulder problems that demand raw strength and precise footwork. The initial moves require you to engage your muscles fully, testing your ability to read tight body positions amid small crimps and powerful pulls. Once this opening gauntlet is behind you, the climbing shifts gears into a more technical rhythm, where balance and subtle foot placements become the story. The rock, predominantly solid and sport-protected with quickdraws, gives climbers confident protection as they push through the 5.11d challenge.
The approach to the route is straightforward, taking a short trek through mixed forest and open patches that slowly reveal the crag ahead, perched at a modest elevation with clear views of the surrounding landscape. This setting, away from urban noise, puts you directly in touch with the mountain’s quiet energy, broken only by the scrape of shoes against rock and an occasional wind whispering through nearby foliage.
For climbers aiming to send this pitch, timing your attempt during late spring through early fall offers the most reliable conditions, as the rock warms under the sun but avoids the blistering heat common in mid-summer. Wearing shoes with a tight fit and aggressive edging will pay dividends on the initial boulder moves, while stamina and finger strength are crucial to unlock the technical sequence that follows.
Though the route is protected well with quickdraws, patience and a clear head are necessary to navigate the transitions smoothly. After completing the climb, descending is a matter of a single rappel or a careful downclimb, requiring attention to loose rocks near the base. All in all, Chasing Stanly rewards climbers who appreciate a blend of muscular power and technical precision packed into an accessible but committed climb on one of Oregon Jack’s most compelling walls.
Despite good bolting, be cautious during the approach and descent due to loose rocks near the base. The initial boulder moves can be strenuous and potentially risk falls onto rocky terrain—controlled falls and good spotting during warmups are advised.
Warm up thoroughly to prepare for powerful boulder-style moves at the start.
Approach in late spring to early fall for the best rock conditions and weather.
A single 60m rope is sufficient for rappelling and downclimbing safely.
Focus on controlled breathing and smooth footwork after the initial hard section.
Bring a standard sport rack of quickdraws; the route is well-bolted, making gear placement straightforward and risk minimal.
Upload your photos of Chasing Stanly and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.