"A focused trad slab climb in Joshua Tree’s Saddle Rocks, Charlton Heston is My President calls for precise footwork and sharp protection management. Its brief 30-foot pitch rewards climbers ready to engage with the subtle, textural granite of this desert haven."
Charlton Heston is My President offers a brief but engaging trad climb set within the raw granite slabs of Joshua Tree National Park’s Saddle Rocks area. The route kicks off by clipping an initial bolt perched on a boulder, inviting climbers to push up a steep, textured slab that demands keen footwork and subtle balance. Edges, smears, and flaky holds appear intermittently underfoot, requiring attentive movement and steady conviction as you ascend. The crux moments tend to gather around the bolts, where the rock’s texture becomes a bit crunchier—calling for precise foot placements and controlled breathing.
Despite its compact length of 30 feet, this single-pitch climb challenges you to manage your protection carefully. With just three bolts and a two-bolt anchor equipped with rings, the route straddles the line between sport and trad discipline, emphasizing runner placement and trust in your gear. Falling near the bolts is ill-advised, so smooth movement over the slab’s subtle features is key.
The approach to this climb is straightforward, threading through the iconic desert landscape of Joshua Tree. The morning sun bathes the slab in warm light, but the slab's southwesterly angle means late afternoon will bring welcome shade. This spot is quieter compared to the park's more frequented climbs, making it a perfect choice for climbers seeking focus without frills.
For those venturing here, sturdy shoes with sticky rubber will make all the difference as you transition from flakes to delicate smears. Hydration remains critical in the dry desert air, and early starts help avoid the heat that peaks on warmer days. Though the route has a bit of residual grit, its condition is steadily improving, promising the satisfying friction Joshua Tree is famous for.
A brief but committed challenge, Charlton Heston is My President invites climbers to engage with the subtle demands of slab climbing, blending technical footwork with prudent protection. It’s a worthy addition to your Joshua Tree agenda if you appreciate short routes that require thoughtful movement and offer a steady rhythm of climbing without distraction.
While the bolts provide key protection points, the slab sections can be unforgiving underfoot with some crumbly patches. Falling is discouraged, especially near the bolts, as the rock can be sharp and ledges narrow. Always double-check anchor integrity and watch for loose flakes on your approach.
Start early to avoid the desert heat and enjoy better friction on the slab.
Use sticky-soled climbing shoes designed for technical slab movement.
Stay close to your bolts and avoid falling in key spots where protection is sparse.
Bring extra water and sun protection—shade arrives late in the day.
This route is protected by three 5/16" bolts and finishes on a two-bolt anchor equipped with rings (5/16" to 3/8"). Climbers should prepare for a mix of traditional placements and bolt clipping. Gear management near bolts is crucial due to some exposure on the slab.
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