"This six-pitch trad climb ascends the Shannon Falls Wall with a demanding blend of crack types and technical moves. Offering a mix of balance, sustained climbing, and diverse protection, it’s a route that rewards persistence and sharp crack skills."
Charlotte's Ride to the Sky offers six varied pitches of trad climbing that challenge both technique and endurance along the impressive Shannon Falls Wall. Starting on the solid, jam-friendly Cardhu Crack, the route immediately pulls you into a realm of textured rock, pine-scented air, and a quiet tension in the forested surroundings. This line blends a variety of crack styles and difficulties, making it a compelling choice for climbers ready to test their skills on a route that feels like a partially undiscovered adventure.
The approach yields a blend of rugged rock faces and the fresh smell of pine needles brushed into cracks, remnants from the season’s opening rounds. Expect to clean several holds with a nut tool as you make your way upward—debris tends to settle in here when traffic is light. This route benefits from being a little rough around the edges but promises great payoff once cleaned and repeated more frequently.
Pitch one sets the tone with a moderate 45-meter climb up Cardhu Crack at 5.8. Climbers will move past the well-known Cardhu anchors to reach a ledge equipped with rappel rings, establishing a solid foundation for the adventure ahead. The second pitch loosens the intensity with an easier ramp featuring a leftward traverse along a friendly hand crack, offering a moment to catch your breath and soak in the surrounding forest canopy.
Pitch three introduces more finger-engaged climbing, where the crack narrows and demands balance and precise body positioning. Although described as a hand crack, it leans heavily on smaller holds, which might put climbers with regular-sized hands to the test until more traffic polishes the line. The pitch ends on a bold bolt anchor secured inside a hole, perfect for a brief rest before the crux arrives.
The fourth pitch delivers a sustained challenge through a striking sequence of moves along a thin seam in a mini-dihedral. What initially appears nearly sealed tests your mental grit as you navigate delicate finger locks and occasional tips that open enough for small pro placements. The climb balances technical finesse with physical persistence, culminating in a slab finish past a pair of bolts. This section consistently pushes the 5.11a grade’s limits, demanding careful footwork and strategic gear placement.
Pitch five immediately releases tension with a juggy right-leaning crack before leading into a distinctive dyke traverse. Though shorter, this pitch provides variety, mixing crack climbing with bolted protection and fun moves to keep spirits high.
The final pitch offers a walk into the forest transitioning into a long, enjoyable climb where comfort gradually replaces intensity. Starting with plentiful jugs and solid pro options, it eases into a slabby 5.8 section with bolt anchors awaiting at the top. This pitch wraps the route with a welcoming sense of accomplishment.
Getting back down calls for a careful traverse left then right along a ramp, with a faint trail guiding climbers south to the Skywalker walk-off. This approach is straightforward but demands attention to footing, especially if vegetation has grown since last passage.
Bringing together diverse crack styles, varied protection, and a setting framed by towering waterfalls and thick forest, Charlotte's Ride to the Sky is a refreshing trad experience. It offers all the building blocks for a rewarding day on one of British Columbia’s more challenging but less trafficked walls, inviting climbers to step into a line that rewards steady effort and solid technique.
Watch for loose debris and pine needles inside cracks, especially early season, which can affect gear placements. The descent involves a faint trail that requires careful navigation to avoid slips, particularly in wet weather.
Expect some natural debris in cracks early in the season—carry a nut tool for cleaning.
The crux pitch involves delicate finger locks on a thin seam; patience and precise footwork pay off.
Plan your descent via the Skywalker walk-off trail—trail can be faint and slippery in wet conditions.
Wear sticky shoes with good toe-smearing capability for slab moves on top pitches.
Double rack from red C3 to #2 Camalots, single #3 Camalot, green and purple C3s recommended. Bring plenty of sling material for anchors on upper pitches; a nut tool is crucial to clear needles and debris from cracks.
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