Challenging Roof and Slab at Cerro Quemado

Guatemala City, Guatemala
roof crux
slabby terrain
sport climbing
sun-exposed
single pitch
technical footwork
Length: 180 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Unknown
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"This single-pitch route on Cerro Quemado features an engaging roof crux followed by a sustained slab section. Perfect for climbers ready to test precise footwork and bold clips in a dry, sunlit environment."

Challenging Roof and Slab at Cerro Quemado

Cerro Quemado offers a distinctive climb that demands both physical commitment and mental focus. Starting just right of the popular La Competencia route, this single-pitch sport climb immediately captures your attention with a pronounced roof section that tests your coordination and grip. The opening move requires precision; a dynamic stretch to clip a chain that hangs provocatively over the lip of the roof segment—one misstep here could lead to an uncomfortable fall. This crux sets the tone for the route’s blend of power and balance.

Once past the roof, the climbing shifts gears into a long run of technical slab. Here, the rock slopes gently outward, challenging your footwork and body control as you navigate delicate edges and subtle smears. The slab doesn’t just test your physical steadiness but also your patience and focus, as you move slowly, reading every nuance of the surface beneath your toes.

The surroundings on Cerro Quemado heighten the experience—a dry landscape where the sun shapes shadows that dance across the rock in the afternoon, giving the climb a dynamic feel as light shifts. The elevation at 180 feet means the route stretches enough to engage your endurance while still fitting into a half-day climbing session.

For climbers targeting 5.10+ PG13 routes, this climb offers a fulfilling challenge, blending the dynamic intensity of the roof with the finesse required on slab. The placements are secured by well-spaced bolts connected to a chain anchor at the top, designed for a 60-meter rope. While the protection holds firm, the placement demands practiced trust in your clipping and movement choices—there’s minimal room for error, especially at the roof crux.

Planning your climb, prioritize sturdy footwear with sensitive edging capability to navigate the slab confidently. Hydration and sun protection are recommended since the wall faces open sky and the approach exposes you to bright light and dry air. The approach track is moderate, threading through rocky terrain that rewards attention but offers straightforward access. Climbers often find ample space at the base for gear setup and pre-climb preparation.

This route invites a focused encounter with the rock, where the personality of Cerro Quemado comes alive through every clip and careful step. Prepare well, move steadily, and this climb will reward you with a gratifying ascent framed by Guatemala’s dramatic mountain backdrop.

Climber Safety

Falling at the roof can result in pendulum swings due to the overhang and distant clipping chains; ensure solid clipping and controlled movement here. The slab portion feels more delicate, so avoid rushing to reduce slip risk. Bring a full 60-meter rope to avoid rope drag and reach the anchor comfortably.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length180 feet

Local Tips

Approach involves moderate footing on rocky trails; wear sturdy shoes for comfort and traction.

Clip carefully at the roof; falling here can lead to swinging falls due to the overhang.

Sun protection is advised since the wall is exposed during midday.

Use climbing shoes with sensitive edging for slab moves to maximize grip and balance.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10+ PG13
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10+ PG13, the rating reflects a blend of power and technical finesse. The roof crux adds a bold element that feels stiff for those unaccustomed to overhangs and hanging clips, while the slab section demands precise balance and body positioning, making it rewarding for climbers advancing beyond moderate grades.

Gear Requirements

A 60-meter rope is essential due to the 180-foot length. The route is protected by bolts and finishes on chain anchors at the top, requiring reliable clipping technique especially at the roof crux.

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Tags

roof crux
slabby terrain
sport climbing
sun-exposed
single pitch
technical footwork