HomeClimbingChainsaw Massacre

Chainsaw Massacre at Cabin Boy's Office

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
flake climbing
crack climbing
face climbing
bolt protected crux
single pitch
Smoke Bluffs
trad gear
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chainsaw Massacre
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chainsaw Massacre offers a sharp blend of crack and technical face climbing on a single pitch at Cabin Boy’s Office. This climb challenges up-and-coming trad climbers with a protected crux and a committing finish, set against the towering rock walls of Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs."

Chainsaw Massacre at Cabin Boy's Office

Set within the rugged contours of Squamish's famed Smoke Bluffs, Chainsaw Massacre slices a striking line up Cabin Boy’s Office's right-hand flank. This single-pitch trad climb commands respect with its balanced mix of crack, flake, and face climbing, anchored by a handful of bolts that provide key security along the way. Starting with a bold ascent past a prominent flake guarded by a lone bolt, the route quickly demands careful footwork and confident gear placements. A horizontal crack ushers climbers into an exposed section faced with technical face moves shielded by two bolts — here lies the crux, a deft dance of tension and precision. For those seeking an alternative, a shadowed groove to the right offers a less strenuous bypass, trading pure face climbing for a more protected groove climb. Beyond this challenge, the climb continues upward with solid face moves culminating in a committed layback finish, protected by a final bolt and well-placed gear. The rock’s texture is gritty and offers reliable holds, while the exposure allows climbers to feel the impressive vertical relief of the Smoke Bluffs' walls. Gear-wise, a standard rack suffices, but the bolt placements and intermittent crack system require thoughtful placements and a readiness to trust both fixed and traditional protection. The approach is straightforward, arriving at Cabin Boy’s Office amid a landscape where towering granite faces invite climbers of all styles. Climbers will find Chainsaw Massacre rewarding for pushing their technical edges without excessive runouts, making it a practical stepping stone for those moving up into more sustained 5.10 lines in Squamish.

Climber Safety

While the bolts offer key protection, some sections require secure traditional gear placements on less-than-perfect rock features. Pay close attention to your placements, especially around the horizontal crack and finish layback. Loose rock is minimal but remain cautious on the final moves and when downclimbing from the anchors.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach from the main trail leading to Cabin Boy’s Office; allow 10-15 minutes from the parking area.

Bring a standard rack to #3 camalot; occasional larger cams are useful for the wider crack sections.

Warm up on nearby easier routes to get acquainted with the granite's gritty texture and sharp edges.

Aim to climb mid-morning to late afternoon for optimal light and warmth on the route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10d, Chainsaw Massacre sits comfortably in the mid-to-upper 5.10 range, with a technically demanding crux that feels solidly in that grade rather than soft. The bolt-protected face section introduces a specific crux, while the alternative groove option offers slightly less intense climbing. Compared to nearby routes, it demands a confident trad climber comfortable with both crack and face techniques.

Gear Requirements

This route requires a standard trad rack complemented by four well-placed bolts that provide fixed protection along key crux sections. Climbers should be prepared for tricky gear placements in the crack and flake features, balancing traditional pro with fixed anchors.

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Tags

flake climbing
crack climbing
face climbing
bolt protected crux
single pitch
Smoke Bluffs
trad gear