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Cerfconcis Trad Climb at Atomic Limbo, Quebec

Quebec City, Quebec Canada
trad
slabby start
overhang crux
arch feature
corner crack
protection heavy
single pitch
technical
Length: 115 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cerfconcis
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cerfconcis challenges climbers with a compelling slab start leading into bolt-protected cruxes beneath Atomic Limbo. This single-pitch trad route demands careful protection and technical moves on crisp rock, making it a must for seasoned Quebec climbers."

Cerfconcis Trad Climb at Atomic Limbo, Quebec

Cerfconcis offers a striking single-pitch trad climb just beneath the well-known Atomic Limbo belay in the rugged climbing areas around Quebec City. From the first step on the slabby base, the route demands precise footwork and measured movement. The opening slab leads you steadily into a defined overhang, secured with bolts, marking the first clear crux. Tackling this feature requires controlled power and confidence to pass just left of a prominent roof before sliding into a left-facing arch. This natural arch directs the line toward the right edge of a large ledge sitting under Atomic Limbo’s hardest section, creating a vital staging area.

The climb then transitions into a corner system where careful protection placement becomes crucial. A solid cam in the #1 or #2 range, paired with a long sling, provides a secure anchor on the left side before circling right and confronting the next challenge: ascending around the roof’s right edge. This second crux tests both your technique and mental focus, as the moves couple strength with balance on a subtly breaking, ledge-patterned face above. The route finishes straightforwardly upwards, rewarding you with a textured exit above the ledge.

Set in the Quebec Charlevoix region, this climb benefits from cool northern aspects and a generous length of 115 feet, making it an accessible yet engaging option for experienced trad climbers seeking a punch of technical climbing in a compact pitch. It’s a route that asks for clean gear handling and route reading to handle the transitions and tricky spots where protection is most needed.

Approach is relatively straightforward, leading into a climbing corridor framed by the larger Atomic Limbo walls. The surrounding landscape holds a rugged charm, with forest edges and open skies contrasting the stone’s sharp edges. Weather conditions can shift quickly, so planning for stable dry periods and bringing an assortment of cams to suit hand and fist cracks will ensure a smoother ascent. Footwear with solid edging capability is essential on the slab start, where sure footing underpins the entire climb.

Beyond the technical demands, Cerfconcis invites climbers to engage closely with the rock's form — it’s a route that balances adventure with a grounded sense of challenge. Whether pushing your limits on the two crux sections or relishing the exposure atop the ledge, this climb pulses with a distinct character that blends raw nature with human effort. Prepare well, respect the gear placements, and let the stone guide your movements through a memorable Quebec trad experience.

Climber Safety

Protection placements in the corner are critical; ensure cams are bomber and slings are long enough to reduce rope drag. The slab start can be slick when wet, so avoid climbing if rain is in the forecast. The overhang bolts are reliable but expect exposure on ledges above.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length115 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb early to avoid late afternoon heat on the slab section.

Bring a well-rounded selection of cams and slings; the protection zones are specific and demand secure placements.

Footwear with precise edging will help navigate the slabby start with control.

Check weather forecasts carefully, as rain can make the slab dangerously slippery.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating accurately reflects the climb's technical nature, with two well-defined cruxes that require solid technique and mental focus. The bolt-protected overhang is punchy but manageable, while the corner crack demands secure gear placements and balance. Compared to nearby Atomic Limbo, Cerfconcis feels slightly more straightforward but still rigorous, making it a solid test of technical trad skills.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack with a complement of cams and nuts is essential here, alongside bolts at key crux points. Be sure to bring cam sizes #1 and #2, plus long slings for optimal protection in the corner section.

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Tags

trad
slabby start
overhang crux
arch feature
corner crack
protection heavy
single pitch
technical