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Central Pillar of Frenzy: Sustained Trad Challenge on Middle Cathedral Rock

Yosemite Village, California United States
trad crack
multi-pitch
off-width
finger crack
granite
Yosemite Valley
classic line
exposed
Length: 500 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Central Pillar of Frenzy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Central Pillar of Frenzy offers five demanding pitches of granite crack climbing on Middle Cathedral Rock's northeast face. Its sustained sequences blend technical finger cracks and off-widths, making it a classic test for trad enthusiasts in Yosemite’s iconic Valley."

Central Pillar of Frenzy: Sustained Trad Challenge on Middle Cathedral Rock

Central Pillar of Frenzy commands attention on Middle Cathedral Rock’s northeast face, an emblem of Yosemite’s gritty crack climbing that both entices and tests climbers. This route draws nearly constant traffic, its five core pitches offering a relentless sequence of crack, corner, and off-width moves that require steady technique and solid gear management.

The climb begins low on a right-facing corner, where sticky granite demands precise footwork and a strong finish pulling onto the pillar itself—a move packed with tension that defines the crux at 5.9 difficulty. Once atop the pillar, the route fans left into a finger crack system that rewards careful jamming and encourages rhythmic breathing. From there, it surges through an engaging roof and an off-width section, opportunities to up your cam placements and feel the rock shape beneath your hands.

The middle pitches, arguably the highlight, feature twin cracks that thread their way upward, inviting a confident grip and calculated anchor placements at bolted belays. With each pitch, the line maintains its consistency, offering neither respite nor surprises, just well-honed, steady technical climbing. The final pitch begins with a chimney that widens into clean cracks, finishing the climb with a physical payoff.

Descending demands as much attention as the ascent—double-rope rappels across the face lead climbers left, then down the arete and the corner. It’s a labyrinth of granite that requires care and clarity of movement. Seasonal caution is essential, not just for slick rock from rain or morning dampness but for bears drawn by unattended food. Leave packs empty of snacks and secure all essentials.

Approach to the climb starts from the Valley South Side, with well-maintained trails leading to Middle Cathedral Rock, about a half-hour hike that winds through open granite slabs and scattered pines. The approach invites focus and energy preservation, critical to a safe, enjoyable push on the pillar.

Protection calls for a full double rack up to 4-inch cams, ready to handle off-width sizes. Fixed bolts mark belay stations, but most of your survival relies on placed gear, making rack composition and placement skill paramount. The rock itself is solid granite, offering reliable friction and positive holds, though the sustained nature means fatigue can build quickly.

Climbers planning their ascent should aim for spring through fall, avoiding early morning moisture or late-season cold that can sap grip. The wall faces northeast, catching early light while offering some afternoon shade—perfect for beating the heat in summer.

Central Pillar of Frenzy is a cornerstone line in Yosemite’s Trad repertoire, presenting challenge without ostentation. It immerses climbers in sustained crack work, combined with accessible logistics and striking granite scenery. Whether you’re honing crack techniques or chasing a solid multi-pitch in the Valley, this route remains both a reliable test and a deeply satisfying achievement.

Climber Safety

The descent involves multiple double-rope rappels across exposed granite faces; careful rope management and a clear plan are vital to avoid getting off route. Be cautious of slippery rock early morning or after rain, and always secure food to avoid attracting bears.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length500 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and respect rock conditions when moist or after rain.

Pack light and avoid leaving food in your packs to prevent bear encounters.

Double ropes are essential for smooth rappels; review descent plan carefully.

Prepare for sustained crack climbing—practice off-width and finger crack techniques beforehand.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade reflects a demanding pitch-one crux that sets the tone, followed by consistent 5.8 to 5.9 pitches that maintain steady difficulty. While the rating feels fairly accurate, the sustained nature and off-width moves require solid endurance and technique. Comparably, it sits alongside other Yosemite classics where commitment and finesse are non-negotiable.

Gear Requirements

Bring a double set of cams extending up to 4 inches to protect off-width sections and finger cracks. Fixed bolts mark belays, but most protection depends on solid gear placements.

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Tags

trad crack
multi-pitch
off-width
finger crack
granite
Yosemite Valley
classic line
exposed