HomeClimbingCenter Route, Geek Towers

Center Route on Geek Towers: A Solid Moderate Trad Climb in Yosemite Falls Wall

Yosemite Valley,California ,United States
offwidth
chimney
multi-pitch
trad
granite
moderate
Yosemite Falls Wall
Grade: 5.10a
Length: 750 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Center Route, Geek Towers
Aspect
South Facing

Center Route, Geek Towers

5.10a, Trad

Yosemite Valley

California ,United States

Overview

"Center Route on Geek Towers is a dependable moderate trad climb on Yosemite Falls Wall, perfect for those looking to explore beyond the busiest classics. With five pitches navigating varied corners and an attention-demanding offwidth, it offers solid granite and a quieter alternative for seasoned and intermediate climbers alike."

Center Route on Geek Towers: A Solid Moderate Trad Climb in Yosemite Falls Wall

If you find yourself wandering the North Side of Yosemite Valley, seeking a climb that stretches beyond the usual yet doesn't demand the flawless precision of the area's celebrated classics, the Center Route on Geek Towers offers a grounded challenge. This moderate route sits a bit to the right of Freestone, acting as a reliable alternative for days when fatigue eases your ambition or nerves edge high as you stand beneath the towers’ looming rock face. The approach itself is a climb, with a low angle scramble that already sets the tone — easy but attentive — allowing you to gain height gently before the more technical pitches unfold.

The rock on this route is generally commendable. Expect solid, grippy granite that feels golden in the sun, though you’ll need to navigate some pockets of sparse vegetation and occasional loose stones. This isn’t a polished showstopper, but it is a genuine slice of Yosemite climbing rooted in real terrain. Your initial pitch — a near 60-meter ascent — follows a right-facing corner with ample hand and foot holds, passing a bolt from Freestone on the way as a reassuring landmark. The belay perches just beneath a left-facing corner, giving a stable spot to regroup.

From here, the climbing shifts through a sequence of corners and chimneys edged with subtle complexity. Pitch two veers up a somewhat vegetated but cleared left corner, delivering an awkward 5.9 challenge packed with technical moves and a bolted belay anchoring your progress. The transition from chimney to open face on pitch three is a blend of bouldery and exposed climbing, weaving through shadowed cracks and requiring steady footwork to handle the trickier portions at the upper section.

Pitch four stands out as the keystone of the climb. A deliberate traverse left leads into the centerpiece offwidth, graded 5.10a, demanding both strength and finesse. Full splits, stemming, and careful sequencing define this pitch — it’s a strenuous workout. Don't rush your protection placements here; large cams, particularly #4 and #5 sizes, will keep you secure. This pitch rewards solid technique and consumes mental focus, with a cozy alcove belay awaiting you under a small roof that offers brief respite.

What follows is a split final segment, usually approached as a single pitch, broken into two for rope management. Ascending up the chimney, you must stay alert to unstable chockstones and negotiate a tricky tree near the top. The climbing eases somewhat here, rated around 5.8, but the aesthetic and physical test of the chimney leaves a lasting impression. Comparisons to other regional classic offwidths put this pitch in a fair place — challenging but approachable if you respect the grade’s demands.

Gear up with a full rack of standard doubles from 0.3 to 3 inches, plus larger cams like #4 and #5 to tackle the offwidth safely. While these placements can be unconventional, the quality rock makes protection placement predictable and reliable once you know where to look. The route’s accessibility from a large platform near the base, just right of Upper Yosemite Falls, keeps the approach straightforward yet engaging — plan for about 15 to 20 minutes to reach the start, navigating easy class 3 terrain that rewards cautious steps with views opening across the valley.

Midday, the route catches ample light on its granite face, though the offwidth remains cool in shadows — a helpful contrast during warmer months. Spring through fall offers the best window for climbing here, avoiding winter's chill and unpredictable wetness. Descending requires care, as rubble and trees near the summit call for deliberate downclimbing and possibly short rappels to reach the ground safely. Prepare accordingly, packing water and sturdy footwear to manage the loose rock and mixed terrain.

Ultimately, Center Route on Geek Towers is a climb that balances Yosemite’s signature granite quality with a moderate, honest test of climbing skills. It’s a trustworthy choice when you want to escape the crowds, move through varied cracks and chimneys, and enjoy a route that challenges without overwhelming. Whether you’re stepping up from beginner multi-pitch routes or simply in need of a slightly softer alternative to favorites like Freestone, this route provides solid footing for your personal adventure in the Valley’s north flank.

Climber Safety

The presence of some loose rock and vegetation means climbers should proceed carefully, especially on downclimbs and less-frequented belay stations. The final chimney contains a shifting chockstone, so move deliberately and test holds. Avoid the route when conditions are wet.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.10a
TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length750 feet

Local Tips

Start from the large platform near Upper Yosemite Falls for an easier approach pitch.

Watch out for sparse vegetation and occasional loose rocks—stay alert on downclimbs.

Protect the offwidth with large cams early; they are easier to place before challenging sections.

Best climbed in spring through fall to avoid wet or icy conditions on the route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating on the offwidth pitch feels just about right—demanding but fair, with a couple of sustained sequences that require both strength and technique. Compared to local routes like those on Sentinel Creek or Book of Job, this climb lands in a moderate zone but still asks for respect, especially on pitches two and four.

Gear Requirements

Bring standard doubles ranging 0.3 to 3 inches, plus larger cams in #4 and #5 sizes for reliable protection, especially through the offwidth pitch.

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Tags

offwidth
chimney
multi-pitch
trad
granite
moderate
Yosemite Falls Wall