HomeClimbingCenter Crack

Center Crack at Cenotaph Spire: A Focused Trad Challenge in Boulder Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
hand crack
trad protection
single pitch
awkward crux
Boulder Canyon
west face
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Center Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Center Crack carves a direct line up Cenotaph Spire’s West Face—a concise, technical trad climb with an awkward crux that demands precise gear placement and crack skills. Perfect for climbers seeking a short but engaging test of technique in Boulder’s close-in canyon terrain."

Center Crack at Cenotaph Spire: A Focused Trad Challenge in Boulder Canyon

Rising sharply from the rugged landscape of Boulder Canyon, the Center Crack route on Cenotaph Spire offers climbers a straightforward yet demanding outing. This 60-foot single pitch packs a punch with its technical moves and a distinctly awkward crux that tests body positioning and gear placement alike. As you begin your climb, the base reveals a left-facing corner carved into the West Face, inviting you to engage immediately with the rock’s texture and angles. Moving upward, you shift left into the heart of a clean crack system—the defining feature of this route—which slices directly up the center of the face. The crack demands precise hand jams and thoughtful footwork, balancing strength and finesse.

Near the summit, expect the climb to veer slightly left, navigating around subtle bulges and maintaining secure placements. The rock’s surface here is solid, offering reliable friction, though the crack challenges you with varying widths that require a keen selection of gear. Protection is straightforward but not to be underestimated: a full set of stoppers combined with cams caters to the crack’s hand-sized sections, especially at the crux.

Located in Boulder, Colorado, the spire rests at an elevation where mountain air sharpens your senses. The approach through Boulder Canyon is accessible and relatively short, but be ready for some uneven terrain and rocky footing. The route’s western aspect means afternoons bring warm sun, perfect for those aiming to climb in cooler mornings or early evenings to avoid heat. The quiet of the canyon and the focused nature of the climb allow both newer and seasoned climbers to experience a punchy endeavor that rewards precision over brute strength.

For those planning their trip, gear light but complete protection suited to hand and fist sizes, reliable footwear with solid edging ability, and a mindful eye on weather are musts. While the climb isn’t lengthy, the crux’s awkward positioning demands attention and composure. Whether you’re sharpening crack technique or simply seeking a memorable line away from crowded routes, Center Crack’s blend of straightforward logistics and technical engagement makes it a compelling objective. This route embodies the directness and grit that Boulder’s climbs are known for.

Climber Safety

The crux involves placing protection in hand-sized cracks that can feel tight and tricky; take your time to ensure placements are secure. The approach trail is rocky and can be slippery when wet, so plan accordingly and wear sturdy shoes.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach via Boulder Canyon trailhead; expect rocky, uneven ground over a 20-minute hike.

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the west-facing wall.

Footwear with excellent edging ability improves performance on the slabby sections near the summit.

Double-check cam sizes for secure placements in the hand- and fist-sized crack sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Center Crack holds a solid challenge with a crux that feels slightly stiffer than the grade suggests. The technical crack climbing and awkward positioning push this route beyond a straightforward climb—expect to rely on solid crack technique and thoughtful gear choices to succeed. Compared to Boulder’s typical 5.9 trad routes, this climb rewards precision over power.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full set of stoppers and a complementary set of cams, focusing on hand-sized protection for the crux section. The crack’s irregular widths reward precise gear placement for confident moves.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Center Crack and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

hand crack
trad protection
single pitch
awkward crux
Boulder Canyon
west face