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Celebrated Beast: A Classic Moderate on Joshua Tree's Northeast Face

Twentynine Palms, California United States
moderate
single pitch
trad
bolted anchors
granite
desert
Joshua Tree
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Celebrated Beast
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Celebrated Beast provides a sharp, single pitch trad climb on Joshua Tree’s Northeast Face. With solid protection and technical moves set against coarse granite, it’s a rewarding moderate that prepares you for the desert’s unique challenges."

Celebrated Beast: A Classic Moderate on Joshua Tree's Northeast Face

Rising sharply along the Northeast Face of Isles in the Sky, Celebrated Beast offers a focused introduction to Joshua Tree’s demanding landscape with a single pitch of technical trad climbing. This route carves a clear line on the blunt arete just right of Dead Bees, inviting climbers into a rhythm of calculated moves punctuated by reliable protection and a moderate challenge. The approach begins on a short crack, a tight invitation that loosens as you traverse past a well-placed pin and ascend the face guarded by three bolts. Each movement demands attention as the coarse texture of the rock insists on deliberate foot placements, while the exposure steadily unfolds.

At about 60 feet, the climb culminates at a ledge shared with Dead Bees, a natural resting point that also serves as a rappel station. From here, descending is straightforward through bolted anchors positioned 20 feet right of Bird of Fire, or you can opt for one of the nearby downclimb options. The rock’s graininess adds a tactile element that is characteristic of Joshua Tree granite—sometimes frictional and rough, at other moments almost slick but never trusting convenience.

While Celebrated Beast doesn’t aspire to overwhelm with complexity or length, its strength lies in offering solid protection and fun technical moves that refine your trad skills. It’s an ideal route for those familiar with moderate cracks and face climbing who want to sharpen their game against the backdrop of a world-class climbing area. The granite commands respect, presenting sequences that feel classic—precise hand jams, subtle stemming, and balanced smearing—all on a wall that drinks in the desert sun.

This climb is also a great anchor point in a broader Joshua Tree adventure. The Isles in the Sky section delivers expansive views across rugged domes, and the climb's position guarantees a quiet spot away from the busiest concentrations. Timing your visit between late fall and early spring will give you comfortable temperatures; the wall’s northeast orientation offers partial shade, keeping the rock pleasantly cool in the cooler months. In summer, early morning is best to avoid the heat.

Preparation is key: sturdy footwear with reliable rubber is essential to handle the abrasive granite, and bringing a standard rack with cams up to 2 inches plus quickdraws fits the route’s protection needs perfectly. Hydration is non-negotiable given the desert setting, and a light helmet is recommended due to loose rock patches reported nearby. This climb is straightforward but not without its risks—the coarse rock can be abrasive if you fall, and the approach involves some boulder hopping through the Split Rocks area.

Celebrated Beast may not be the boldest or most famous line in Joshua Tree, yet it offers an authentic taste of desert trad climbing that balances approachability with skill building. It’s a worthy choice for those looking to combine technical enjoyment with efficient logistics and a dose of Joshua Tree’s rugged charm.

Climber Safety

The large-grained granite is generally secure but watch for occasional loose flakes near the base and ledge. The desert environment means rapid temperature changes—carry ample water and be cautious when rock is hot. Downclimbing off the ledge involves some exposure; use the rappel anchors if unsure.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid heat; the route benefits from morning sun but afternoon shade.

Bring a rack with cams up to 2 inches, slings, and quickdraws for bolts.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to manage the large-grained granite surface.

Stay alert for loose rock near the start of the route and on the ledge.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- grade on Celebrated Beast feels approachable but solid, with a crux section where precision footwork and well-placed hand jams are critical. While it’s not overly stiff, the coarse rock and the need for careful gear placements raise the mental game beyond a soft 5.9. Compared to nearby routes, it strikes a nice balance between challenge and protection.

Gear Requirements

The route features 4 well-placed bolts and fixed pin protection, with placements suitable for cams up to 2 inches. The bolted anchors also allow for easy rappelling.

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Tags

moderate
single pitch
trad
bolted anchors
granite
desert
Joshua Tree