"Caveman offers climbers a compact but technical test of stemming and body control on Main Wall's granite face at Comox Lake. With a no-hands rest under the roof and a powerful left swing around a demanding overlap, it’s a route that rewards finesse and steady tactics."
Caveman is a sharp, focused climb carved into the granite face of Main Wall at Comox Lake on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. This single-pitch route demands precise technique rather than brute force, rewarding those who trust controlled movements and fluid body positioning. From the start, the wall challenges you with technical stemming that tests your balance and footwork, leading to a rare moment of respite: a no-hands rest tucked beneath the first roof. This brief pause offers a chance to breathe and reset before you push off to the left, swinging around a strenuous overlap that requires both power and finesse. Whether you’re projecting the moves or sending, the 5.12a rating reflects a route with a sharp crux that calls for sharp focus and confidence.
The climbing style here leans into body tension more than finger strength, with extended moves that reward a flexible reach and careful foot placements on the crisp granite. Ascending under the roof brings the feel of a physical puzzle, where body positioning and momentum dictate your progress. Four well-spaced bolts protect the route, so clipping strategically—starting with a stick clip—is essential to maintaining flow and conserving energy.
Main Wall sits on the northwest shores of Comox Lake, a spot where the air carries the cool scent of cedar and the occasional splash of the lake beyond whispers adventure. The approach is manageable, weaving through old-growth forest and opening onto a bright face that welcomes morning climbers. Framed by quiet wilderness and distant mountain silhouettes, the location offers not just a challenge but a chance to reset your senses.
Preparation here means more than packing rope and quickdraws; weather can shift unexpectedly, so layers and traction-focused climbing shoes are a must. Early season ascents reward cooler temperatures that help maintain friction. Hydration is key, especially when pushing through the crux moves where every ounce of power counts. Whether you’re open to projecting or steady on your redpoint attempts, the route demands respect and measured effort but promises a satisfying, intense climb in return.
The roof section demands careful rope management and clipping on delicate footholds. A missed clip early on can make the crux more daunting. Weather can quickly affect grip, so avoid climbing after rain and stay alert on loose forest trails approaching the crag.
Stick clip the first bolt to save energy for the crux moves.
Climb during cooler parts of the day for optimal friction on granite.
Approach through the forested trail; bring waterproof footwear during wet conditions.
Hydrate well before climbing; the strenuous overlap demands peak effort.
Four bolts protect Caveman, but a stick clip is recommended to safely navigate the initial moves without wasting energy. Bring standard sport rack and rely on precise clipping to maintain smooth momentum.
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