"Cave Exit delivers a steep, technical crack requiring careful body positioning and problem-solving moves. Ideal as a final pitch after nearby classics, this trad climb challenges climbers with a tricky crux and solid protection on Flatiron’s north face."
Cave Exit stands as a compact but testing finale tucked into the north face of Flatirons' West Ironing Board. This short trad climb offers a steep, twisting crack that demands you to think through body positioning as much as raw strength. From the initial moves, you’re met with a crux that can leave you searching for purchase, caught in a web of full-body stemming and balance shifts. The rock here calls for patience—once you decode the opening puzzle, the climbing smooths out, peppered with reassuring holds and solid placements that ease the effort to the top ledge. Although modest in length, Cave Exit is an excellent complement to climbs like Smoother or Crescent, forming a well-rounded outing that rewards steady technique and mental focus.
Approaching from the Boulder area, the climb is both inviting and quietly intimidating. The fracture feels tight and demanding but the crack line itself is the clearest escape route from this cliff, with gear placements reassuring every move after the initial challenge. Climbers will find this pitch no tougher than a 5.8, but the unique physicality and mental puzzle of the opening make it feel harder than its rating might suggest, lending a touch of surprise for those expecting straightforward climbing.
Protection is straightforward once the crux is behind you—well-sized cams slot safely, giving confidence as you ascend. However, the climb’s modest length and ledge at the top mean it’s just as safe to solo, assuming you’re prepared for cautious movement over tricky terrain. Bring a phone if going alone because the scramble off to the northwest can be remote enough that a fall here carries real consequences.
The wall leans northwest, catching late-day sun and offering a warm platform to rest once you’ve topped out. Spring and fall are ideal seasons to tackle this route when temperatures are moderate and the rock temperature welcomes skin contact without roaring heat.
Descent involves a scramble northwest from the ledge, traversing the cliff’s upper edge back to the trail. This exit is not complex but does require attention—loose rock and exposure mean good footwear and deliberate foot placement are mandatory to avoid slipping. Cave Exit is a little-known slice of Flatirons climbing that delivers a satisfying, technical finish to any nearby ascent. Its blend of brainy moves and reliable protection make it suited for climbers ready to test their movement on tight cracks with an adventurous edge.
Beware of the scramble off the top ledge—loose rock and exposure require focused footing and surefooted shoes. Falling at this spot carries significant risk. If soloing, bring communication gear due to the remote nature of the exit.
Approach carefully—scramble off to the northwest can be loose and exposed.
Best climbed in spring or fall when temperatures are comfortable.
Bring a rack sized for narrow to medium cams for secure protection.
Consider pairing with nearby routes like Smoother or Crescent for a fulfilling day.
Simple rack of cams covers the gear needed; protection is solid post-crux with no shortage of placements. Due to the exposed nature of the scramble off, bring a phone if soloing to stay connected in case of emergency.
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