"Caterpillar is a two-pitch trad route set in California’s High Desert, blending a bolt-protected crux with steady crack climbing. Its desert setting offers an adventurous climb balanced by practical gear needs and straightforward approach."
Caterpillar offers an engaging two-pitch trad climb rising 85 feet within the rugged expanse of Roachclip Rocks, California. The route begins with a distinctive challenge: a bolt-protected crux right off the ground, offering a secure but thought-provoking start that tests your poise at 5.8 difficulty. This initial pitch ascends straight upward before veering left along a crack that invites steady movement and calculated footwork. The rock here has a gritty texture under your fingertips, and the desert air carries a dry warmth, sharp against the cool stone.
Once atop the first pitch, the climb eases into its second stage, which wraps around the rear of the pillar with consistent 5.7 moves. This section rewards patience and balance over brute force, requiring focused technique as you navigate the natural angles and holds sculpted into the rock’s weathered face.
At the summit of the pillar, the panoramic views of the High Desert open wide. The vast, sun-bleached landscape stretches outward, punctuated by spiny vegetation and sharp shadows cast by the sun. Here, the air feels expansive and still, a quiet counterpoint to the physical effort it took to arrive.
The descent involves some easy downclimbing on solid holds at the end of the first pitch, so be ready to stay engaged until you reach the base. Prepare your gear for solid belays, as protection is minimal and primarily oriented toward securing anchors rather than shielding every move.
Approaching Caterpillar means immersing yourself in an area defined by stark geology and clear desert sky. The climb is best tackled in cooler parts of the day to avoid baking rock and dehydration, a reminder that timing matters just as much as technique. Footwear with firm edges and sticky rubber will help you lock into the varied crack and face holds.
This climb is a pure expression of hands-on trad climbing — straightforward but packed with enough features to keep momentum and confidence growing. It invites climbers comfortable with moderate challenges and minimal fixed protection to step into the character of the High Desert’s rugged stone.
While the first pitch’s bolt adds security at the crux, protection beyond that is sparse — climbers should trust their trad placements and maintain careful route finding. The rocky approach deserves attention to avoid ankle injuries, especially when descending the easy moves at pitch end.
Start climbs early in the morning to avoid intense desert heat and sun exposure.
Bring sticky rubber shoes to optimize grip on the varied rock textures.
Hydrate well — water sources are sparse in this high desert environment.
Be prepared for a short but uneven approach through rocky terrain near Luna Boulders.
Minimal gear needed beyond trad protection for belays. The crux at the start is supported by a bolt, easing protection concerns early on. Bring standard trad rack to protect the second pitch’s consistent crack and angles.
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