Casually Off-Route in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison offers a compelling shift for trad climbers craving more adventure beyond The Casual Route’s initial pitches. Set on the steep walls of SOB Gully, this route unfolds over eight pitches and roughly 800 feet of vertical terrain, challenging climbers to adapt quickly as they navigate the canyon’s rugged sculpted granite. Bright Colorado sunlight alternates with shaded recesses as the wall faces north, inviting climbers to time their ascent during the cooler parts of the day, especially in summer.

The first two pitches share ground with The Casual Route, providing a familiar warm-up before the climbing shifts in character upon reaching the base of a steep wall. Starting at pitch three, the route demands precise footwork and balance through a series of traverses leftward, followed by an awkward mantle move to reach a belay ledge rated at 5.7. This move requires subtle body positioning and strong arms to pull around, rewarding you with a commanding stance to set up for the next pitch.

Pitch four begins in a wide, open section, where climbers will find steady climbing directly upward, aiming for a stance just beneath a notable "undercling variation" rated at 5.8. Although there’s an alternative layback variation rated 5.8 that pushes right, the default line stays slightly left, demanding consistent focus and careful gear placements. The rock feels solid and trustworthy here, with enough features for good pro placements.

As you progress to pitch five, the route turns more committing. The traverse left intensifies; holds become trickier and the climbing steeper, stepping into the 5.9 range. This shorter but engaging pitch, roughly 60 feet, demands confidence and skill to manage exposure while placing gear efficiently. The belay sits at the base of a narrow crack angling upward and right, setting the stage for pitch six.

The move off the belay on pitch six starts with a challenging sequence before easing into a diagonal climb that reconnects with the layback pitch mentioned earlier. Here, the grade softens to about 5.7+, letting you regain a bit of rhythm while the route merges back with The Casual Route near its fifth or sixth pitch. From here, finishing options parallel those traditional lines, offering climbers familiar terrain to wrap up.

Gear requirements include a standard rack with emphasis on a #4 Camalot for larger cracks and secure placements. The granite is predominantly clean and solid, lending itself to reliable protection placements throughout. The climb’s flow carries a brisk pace but don’t rush—route finding and precise movements remain essential for safe, enjoyable climbing.

Though some climbers appreciate this variation for its added technical moves and sustained interest, others note the finishes lack punch, making the overall experience solid but not spectacular. Ultimately, Casually Off-Route is a solid all-day endeavor for climbers targeting a slightly tougher, less trafficked option in Black Canyon, combining exposure, varied climbing styles, and striking canyon views.

Access involves hiking into SOB Gully on the North Rim, where the terrain is rugged but well established. The approach features loose rock sections and forest patches offering ample shade. Plan for about 30 to 45 minutes to reach the base, starting from the closest trailhead in Gunnison, Colorado (38.58606, -107.71322). Timing your ascent for early morning or late afternoon helps avoid the peak sun and keeps the rock cooler underfoot.

This route balances thrill and practicality, offering enough challenge to engage intermediate-to-advanced climbers while providing clear beta and protection recommendations. Whether you’re expanding your Black Canyon repertoire or seeking a less traveled variation, Casually Off-Route delivers an honest, action-packed day on the rock.