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Cast In Stone: A Classic Sport Route on Negativity Slabs

Tahoe City, California United States
sport climbing
slab
multi-pitch
granite
easy approach
lake tahoe
Length: 200 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Cast In Stone
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cast In Stone presents a straightforward 5.8 sport climb on the Negativity Slabs near Lake Tahoe. With two pitches of solid granite climbing and a mellow approach, this route suits climbers looking for an approachable multi-pitch with scenic views and reliable protection."

Cast In Stone: A Classic Sport Route on Negativity Slabs

Cast In Stone offers an accessible yet engaging sport climb set within the rugged outcrops of the Negativity Slabs near Lake Tahoe. Starting with a 5.8 move low on the first pitch, the route quickly settles into a series of smooth, cruisy climbing that rewards steady technique and thoughtful footwork. The first pitch covers roughly 100 feet of slab and face climbing protected by seven well-spaced bolts, leading you to a rocky bench beneath the imposing Negativity Cave. From here, a second pitch extends your journey upward, edging left to the leftmost set of bolts above to reach the top of the cave and complete a total length of 200 feet.

The rock itself is solid granite, offering enough friction to keep the climber confident even on the slab sections. This passage keeps you engaged with occasional balance moves and the satisfying challenge of reading subtle holds in a quiet, open setting. The route's clean anchors at the top of pitch two provide excellent opportunities for top-rope setups if you want to test yourself on some of the harder climbs to the right. This versatility makes Cast In Stone perfect both as a standalone challenge and as a warm-up or stepping stone for tougher lines nearby.

The approach to Negativity Slabs is straightforward, taking you through uneven wilderness terrain that rewards careful footing but remains accessible for most climbers. Sweeping views of the I-80 corridor and nearby Lake Tahoe stretch across the horizon, grounding the experience with a constant sense of place and scale. The route’s moderate rating and uncomplicated protection invite climbers of varying skill levels to embrace the rock without the pressure of extreme difficulty.

When planning your climb, be sure to bring shoes with good grip for the slab sections and a light rack, as all necessary protection comes from bolts and two-bolt anchors. Hydration and sun protection are key, especially in warmer months when the granite warms quickly. Morning climbs are ideal to avoid the afternoon heat and enjoy the changing light across the face. The descent is straightforward from the anchors via a double rope rappel or a careful walk-off to the base, making it manageable even for those new to multi-pitch sport routes.

Cast In Stone stands as an inviting gateway to the climbing treasures of the Emeralds area. It carries a story of perseverance—named after Paul Brabham’s first ascent made while sporting an arm cast, an anecdote that quietly underscores the mix of determination and joy wrapped in every ascent here. Whether you’re pacing your way up the slab or hanging from the anchors atop the cave, this route offers an honest slice of Lake Tahoe climbing that’s equal parts approachable and satisfying.

Climber Safety

Although the bolts are solid, watch your footing on the slab sections where slips can happen if care is not taken. The approach includes loose rock patches, so sturdy shoes and attentive hiking are recommended. Afternoon sun can heat the rock and reduce grip, so plan climbs accordingly.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the slab sections.

Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber for optimal friction.

Hydrate well—the granite absorbs heat quickly, increasing dehydration risk.

Use the top anchors for top-roping harder climbs along the cave’s lip.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels true to its grade with a single slightly challenging move low on the first pitch followed by straightforward slab climbing. It leans toward the easier side of 5.8 routes, making it a dependable choice for climbers transitioning into multi-pitch sport climbs. Compared to nearby routes, this climb offers smoother rock and less steep angles, providing a pleasant introduction to this cliff band.

Gear Requirements

The climb is protected by seven bolts on the first pitch leading to a two-bolt anchor. The second pitch continues with bolted protection to the top of Negativity Cave. A standard sport rack and a double rope for rappelling are sufficient.

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Tags

sport climbing
slab
multi-pitch
granite
easy approach
lake tahoe