"Caramel Crunch offers a straightforward yet demanding crack climb on the South Face of North Cave Rock in Joshua Tree. This single-pitch trad route challenges climbers with sustained crack moves and an engaging headwall finish, ideal for those seeking a raw desert climbing experience."
Caramel Crunch carves a compelling line up the leftmost crack system on the South Face of North Cave Rock, situated within the rugged expanse of Joshua Tree National Park’s Cave Corridor. This single-pitch 60-foot trad climb challenges climbers with a raw, engaging seam that offers both technical crack climbing and a spicy headwall finish. The route rises steadily through a narrow crack that gradually widens, demanding fluid finger jams and hand stacks before you reach a belay anchor solidly positioned adjacent to the entry point of the popular Happy Meal route.
The setting is strikingly straightforward: the wall’s worn granite is tough yet trustworthy, weathered by frequent wind and sun exposure typical of the high desert. The approach leads you through a largely open landscape punctuated by stunted pinyon pines and scrub brush, with sounds of desert wildlife punctuating the otherwise quiet canyon. The crack itself dares you to read its rhythm, testing your footwork on small edges and slabby sections as your cams find pockets and constrictions to hold protection. Expect sustained movement with no breaks in the upper headwall, where placements tighten and the angle steepens just enough to demand commitment.
Caramel Crunch is not often trafficked, which means the rock retains a gritty texture—grip is reliable but expect some loose flakes near the base to watch as you start. The protection calls for a varied rack, primarily cams ranging from 1 to 4 inches. Medium-sized cams slot perfectly into constrictions in the crack, while smaller gear lovers will find opportunities amid seams and side pulls. Bolts are scarce, with only two hangerless bolts sparingly placed mid-route, offering minimal but welcome aid—mostly relying on solid, thoughtful traditional placements.
The climb’s rating of 5.10a speaks to its technical nuance rather than pure physicality. The crux sneaks in at the headwall, where widening crack sections test technique and precise foot placement. While the grade feels fair, the isolation and slightly runout protections add an edge that rewards confident route reading and steady nerve. Compared to other Joshua Tree classics, Caramel Crunch leans toward the more committed side, but its concise length makes it approachable for those looking to sharpen crack skills.
For those planning an ascent, gear preparation is key: a full rack with emphasis on mid-size cams, comfortable climbing shoes suitable for smearing and edging, and tape for hand protection can make the difference. Early morning starts help avoid midday sun, which quickly heats the granite and saps stamina. Water and sun protection are essential, as the high desert environment offers little shade on the South Face. The approach trail is moderate and well-defined but be ready for some loose rock near the base of the climb.
Descend by carefully rappelling from the belay anchors; rappel slings are set for a single 60-foot drop. Double-check all knots and anchors, as the bolts offer limited redundancy. The descent trail reconnects you quickly to the main path, easing your return to the parking area with the desert’s late afternoon calm providing a well-earned cool-down. Caramel Crunch captures the spirit of Joshua Tree’s less polished, more earnest climbs—uncomplicated, direct, and satisfying for trad climbers craving authentic crack climbing in a wild, open setting.
Watch for loose flakes near the start and maintain situational awareness on the headwall where protection thins out. The rappel anchor uses minimal fixed gear—always double-check knots and anchor security before descending.
Start early to avoid the intense midday sun on the South Face.
Tape your hands to protect against gritty crack sections.
Double-check and back up rappel anchors for a safe descent.
Bring plenty of water—the desert sun is unrelenting even in cooler months.
Bring a comprehensive rack of cams from 1 to 4 inches. The route features two hangerless bolts but is primarily protected by traditional gear placements, with medium cams fitting perfectly into the seam's constrictions.
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