"Candyland tests the trad climber with four well-protected pitches that balance technical stemming, crack climbing, and confident slab moves. Set on the Gonzales Creek Wall, the route rewards focused effort with sweeping views over Howe Sound, making it an iconic Squamish experience."
Candyland offers a compelling blend of technical crack and face climbing set along the striking slabs of Gonzales Creek Wall, perched above the rugged shores of Howe Sound. This four-pitch trad route challenges climbers with sustained sequences that shift between delicate stemming and dynamic laybacks, threading together a vertical journey across a slender buttress. From the first move, the rock demands focused footwork and carefully placed protection — it’s a climb that tests both finesse and resolve.
The approach sets the tone with a forested trail winding briefly through firs to the base of the wall, where the cool Pacific air carries faint echoes of the sound crashing below. Pitch one begins with bold moves on large jugs, quickly shifting into delicate stemming and face holds past fixed bolts. These initial 25 meters fade into a small ledge where a secure anchor invites a breather and a panoramic glance at the water’s shimmering expanse.
Continuing upward, pitch two tightens the technical demands. The rock narrows into a buttress peppered with cracks and pockets, requiring calculated laybacks and stemming around two well-placed bolts. This 20-meter pitch flows so well it’s often linked with the first, allowing an extended push for those confident in their endurance and gear management.
Pitch three introduces a shift in rhythm—climbing a natural crack before veering right into slab territory. The face here requires precision; climbers must trust their feet on seemingly friction-dependent holds while negotiating a few bolts that guard the crux. The moves feel elevated in difficulty, balanced by the possibility of easing through an aid if needed. A solid 25-meter pitch that is as rewarding as it is challenging.
The final pitch delivers a tough initial move past the first bolt, then gradually eases into slab climbing accentuated by an overlap that demands a careful step left past another bolt. The climb finishes on a stunning ledge bathed in afternoon sun, providing a perfect spot to savor the accomplishment and the vast views that stretch across lush forested slopes down to the sea. Rope length here extends to approximately 30 meters.
Protection demands a rack that covers traditional gear from small cams (#0 Metolius) up to larger sizes (#3 Metolius), paired with a handful of bolts offering fixed protection in crux sections. The route’s well-built anchors and reliable pro placements ensure safety, but climbers should be prepared for tricky placements and some pockets that require attention.
The descent calls for a single rope rappel from the anchors, swiftly guiding climbers back to the trail below. This route is best tackled in morning to early afternoon light, as the west-facing wall basks in ample sun but can become slick if damp.
Locally, Candyland is valued for its mix of technical moves and scenic payoff, standing as a rewarding choice for trad climbers seeking a sustained challenge that blends the best of Squamish’s granite.
Watch your feet on the slab sections; while bolts offer protection, the rock can be slippery when wet or mossy, especially in later pitches. Also, be cautious of loose rock on the approach and ensure proper rappelling rigging from the fixed anchors to avoid rope drag.
Start early to enjoy dry, warm rock on the west-facing wall.
Bring gear to cover a range of cam sizes, especially #0 to #3.
Watch for a tricky foot move at the start of pitch four to avoid slipping.
Rappel carefully from established anchors; the single rope descent is straightforward but shaded.
Carry traditional gear sized from #0 to #3 Metolius cams, along with Metolius and Black Diamond pieces to protect cracks and face sections. Fixed bolts assist through crux moves on each pitch. A single rope rappel descends the route.
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