"Candy Grabber offers a compact, engaging two-pitch climb blending slab free climbing and technical aid within Joshua Tree’s South Cave Rock area. With a short approach and intriguing gear challenges, it’s a solid option for those expanding their aid repertoire in a classic desert setting."
Candy Grabber stands out in Joshua Tree’s South Cave Rock sector, a route clearly etched against the sun-drenched cliff just off the roadside. This two-pitch climb offers an accessible yet intriguing blend of slab and aid climbing on predominantly solid rock. Starting with a slabby first pitch peppered with a few well-placed bolts, the route quickly shifts into a more technical aid climb where a thin crack demands precision and patience. Fixed gear left by early ascenders provides some assistance, but the route remains an engaging test of route-finding and gear placement. The nearby ramp that runs beside the aid pitch serves as a constant reminder to stay anchored and cautious—misplaced protection could mean an uncomfortable slide onto that ledge.
Approach is short and straightforward, making Candy Grabber a good choice for climbers wanting a quick but satisfying climb away from longer scrambles. The descent thread carefully down a south-facing crack and gully system, requiring attention and possibly a brief rappel near the base to ensure a safe return.
While not the most demanding climb in the park, Candy Grabber offers a solid mix that challenges both free climbing and aid techniques. Protection options are broad—you'll want a rack suited for aid climbing plus gear to build a secure belay above the first pitch. This climb rewards those who appreciate quieter lines with straightforward access and manageable exposure.
Climbers will appreciate the sun-bleached rock texture typical of Joshua Tree, the whisper of desert winds through sparse vegetation, and the presence of the imposing Cave Corridor within eyesight. Whether you're brushing up on aid techniques or looking for an approachable multipitch climb with solid pro, Candy Grabber stands as a worthy addition to your Joshua Tree itinerary.
Be mindful of the fixed gear’s condition on the aid pitch, as some pieces date from the first ascent party. The ramp adjacent to the aid crack is a notable hazard if protection pops. Also, take care descending the narrow crack/gully; a short rappel may be necessary to avoid a risky downclimb near the bottom.
Start early to avoid midday desert heat on exposed slab sections.
Use caution on the aid pitch to avoid striking the parallel ramp feature in case of a fall.
Carry extra webbing or slings to set up a firm anchor at the top of the first pitch.
Prepare for a tricky downclimb or short rappel on the descent’s lower gully.
Bring a standard aid rack including hooks, daisy chains, and a selection of camming devices suitable for thin cracks. A few pins may help with placements, and a few pieces of trad gear are recommended to build a secure belay atop pitch one. Expect some fixed gear left from the first ascent, but prepare for active placements.
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