"California Reamin' offers a brief but intense trad pitch along a blunt arete of textured Murrin granite. Its technical moves and sparse gear demand precise skill and cautious commitment, making it a compelling challenge for experienced trad climbers in Squamish."
Tackling California Reamin' means committing to a steep, single-pitch crusade on the renowned Murrin granite of Squamish’s rugged Murrin Park. This route slices up a blunt arete with bold, technical moves that demand precision, poise, and a steady head. Approached as a headpoint lead, climbers experience the raw character of the line—once a Dave Lane top-rope classic—now a test of boldness and gear finesse. The granite here feels alive under your fingertips: cool, rough, and unforgiving. Each hold is a talking point, every crack placement a puzzle.
This 75-foot climb sits quietly on the spine of the arete, challenging you to weigh each move carefully above a precarious ground fall zone spotted with tilted boulders. Protection is sparse and exacting; tiny brass nuts and micro cams thread into incipient seams and minute incisions. The scarcity of gear forces a rehearsal approach, with placements dialed in during rappel before attempting the ascent. This isn’t a route to toss your rope on and send blind—the margin for error is slim.
Set in the heart of Murrin Park, the granite is as classic as they come—solid, textured, and begging for careful climbing. The rock's blistering texture provides just enough grip to keep you trusting your feet, yet demands clean technique to navigate the tight, technical seam with confidence. The route’s exposure is felt throughout, whispering a reminder that commitment here is as much mental as physical.
Beyond the climb, the setting comes alive with the sounds of the forest edging the cliffs and the distant rush of the nearby Cheakamus River drawing you into the wild landscape. The trailhead is accessible after a short approach hike, setting a measured tone before the intense focus of the climb itself. Bring crash pads for added security on the deck and be aware of the loose boulders marking the landing zone.
Plan your attempt during dry, stable weather—the granite can turn slick and unforgiving after rain. Morning light catches the arete beautifully, warming the rock as the day unfolds, making early starts ideal to capitalize on firm holds and avoid afternoon shade chills. Footwear needs to be stiff enough to edge micro placements but sensitive enough to read the subtle features of the face.
California Reamin' isn’t for every trad climber. It’s a route that blends technical mastery with mental grit, demanding patience and exacting preparation. But for those willing to engage with its blunt honesty, the climb offers a rare taste of pure Squamish trad riding the fine edge between control and exposure. This is a route that rewards respect, rehearsal, and the quiet satisfaction of threading protection where it seems nearly impossible.
Beware of the shallow runout zones peppered with tilted boulders; a fall here could result in serious injury. Protection placements are thin and specific—approach with thorough gear rehearsal and use multiple crash pads to mitigate risk on the ground. Avoid climbing the route when the granite is damp or after rainfall.
Scout and rehearse gear placements on rappel before leading.
Use multiple crash pads to protect the landing zone.
Plan for a dry day; granite becomes slick when wet.
Start early for firm holds and optimal sunlight on the arete.
Bring a rack focusing on very small nuts and micro cams in the #0 to #1 range, including several 5-6 sized tiny brass nuts and RP’s. Placement demands rehearsal on rappel due to the technical precision required. Carry multiple crash pads for potential ground fall hazards.
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