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Cage Monkeys at Dead Horse Crag: A Crisp 5.9 Trad and Sport Challenge

Glenwood Springs, Colorado United States
trad climbing
sport climbing
5.9
single pitch
horizontal holds
roof crux
two bolt anchor
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cage Monkeys
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cage Monkeys offers a concise 40-foot climb blending trad and sport protection on solid edges and horizontal holds. Perfect for climbers seeking a straightforward, punchy 5.9 in Glenwood Canyon."

Cage Monkeys at Dead Horse Crag: A Crisp 5.9 Trad and Sport Challenge

Dead Horse Crag, tucked in the lively stretch of Glenwood Canyon near Glenwood Springs, Colorado, offers climbers a straightforward yet satisfying ascent with Cage Monkeys. This short route demands precise footwork on solid edges and inviting horizontal breaks, making it an ideal introduction to the blend of trad and sport climbing found here. The face, located just right of a large corner formation, invites you to engage with well-defined holds and trust your gear, including two strategic bolts that add peace of mind without diluting the natural challenge. As you approach the climb’s final section, a small roof tests your technique, asking you to commit to big holds embedded in horizontal seams — a rewarding crux that punctuates the route with just enough spice.

At just 40 feet, this single-pitch climb moves quickly yet demands focused movement and sound protection choices. The rock quality stands out with solid edges and reliable seams, allowing for both traditional placements up to a #2 Camalot and bolt protection where needed. Anchoring at a two-bolt station reinforces the route’s safety for follow climbers or rap descent. The setting inside Glenwood Canyon adds a layer of immersion, with towering canyon walls flanking the climb and the distant sounds of the Colorado River weaving through the valley floor.

Climbers will appreciate the straightforward approach, a gentle walk-in that frames the climb with cool canyon breezes and filtered sunlight. This route works well in spring and fall, when temperatures moderate and the sun’s angle favors the face during afternoon hours. For those new to the area or the trad-sport hybrid style, Cage Monkeys offers both an approachable challenge and a glimpse into the varied climbs Glenwood Springs holds.

Carrying a mix of cams up to #2 and quickdraws for the bolts will set you up for a smooth ascent. Sturdy shoes with solid edging capabilities help you stay balanced on the well-defined horizontal breaks. Hydration and keeping a watchful eye on the weather forecast are important — sudden canyon winds or heat can quickly change conditions.

Whether you're ticking off your first 5.9 or looking to sharpen your trad-sport technique amid Colorado’s canyon walls, Cage Monkeys delivers a compact, engaging climb without pretense. It’s a practical introduction to climbing Glenwood Canyon’s sport-trad hybrid lines, grounded in solid technique and anchored in a spectacular, accessible location.

Climber Safety

The route’s small roof requires a commitment move that, if taken lightly, could lead to a fall. Bolts and solid placements up to #2 ensure protection, but climbers should be confident with gear placement and aware that a delicate foot slip on the horizontal seam could rock the balance. Approach and descent trails can be loose; stay alert on the granite scree.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Approach on a well-marked and gentle trail offering cool shade in the morning.

Carry a light rack with cams up to #2 Camalot to protect the trad sections effectively.

Afternoon climbing is best when the face is warmed by the sun but not overheated — spring and fall offer ideal temps.

Check weather reports for sudden canyon wind shifts that can impact balance on exposed holds.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here feels accurate and solid. The crux involves navigating a small roof using big horizontal holds, which ramps up effort briefly but doesn’t overextend the grade. Compared to other local 5.9s in Glenwood Canyon, Cage Monkeys leans toward straightforward movement with the added finesse of combining bolted and traditional gear, making it a balanced challenge for intermediate climbers.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard rack with cams up to #2 Camalot plus quickdraws for the two bolts. Two-bolt anchor at the top for safe belay or rappel.

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Tags

trad climbing
sport climbing
5.9
single pitch
horizontal holds
roof crux
two bolt anchor