"Cage Monkeys offers a concise 40-foot climb blending trad and sport protection on solid edges and horizontal holds. Perfect for climbers seeking a straightforward, punchy 5.9 in Glenwood Canyon."
Dead Horse Crag, tucked in the lively stretch of Glenwood Canyon near Glenwood Springs, Colorado, offers climbers a straightforward yet satisfying ascent with Cage Monkeys. This short route demands precise footwork on solid edges and inviting horizontal breaks, making it an ideal introduction to the blend of trad and sport climbing found here. The face, located just right of a large corner formation, invites you to engage with well-defined holds and trust your gear, including two strategic bolts that add peace of mind without diluting the natural challenge. As you approach the climb’s final section, a small roof tests your technique, asking you to commit to big holds embedded in horizontal seams — a rewarding crux that punctuates the route with just enough spice.
At just 40 feet, this single-pitch climb moves quickly yet demands focused movement and sound protection choices. The rock quality stands out with solid edges and reliable seams, allowing for both traditional placements up to a #2 Camalot and bolt protection where needed. Anchoring at a two-bolt station reinforces the route’s safety for follow climbers or rap descent. The setting inside Glenwood Canyon adds a layer of immersion, with towering canyon walls flanking the climb and the distant sounds of the Colorado River weaving through the valley floor.
Climbers will appreciate the straightforward approach, a gentle walk-in that frames the climb with cool canyon breezes and filtered sunlight. This route works well in spring and fall, when temperatures moderate and the sun’s angle favors the face during afternoon hours. For those new to the area or the trad-sport hybrid style, Cage Monkeys offers both an approachable challenge and a glimpse into the varied climbs Glenwood Springs holds.
Carrying a mix of cams up to #2 and quickdraws for the bolts will set you up for a smooth ascent. Sturdy shoes with solid edging capabilities help you stay balanced on the well-defined horizontal breaks. Hydration and keeping a watchful eye on the weather forecast are important — sudden canyon winds or heat can quickly change conditions.
Whether you're ticking off your first 5.9 or looking to sharpen your trad-sport technique amid Colorado’s canyon walls, Cage Monkeys delivers a compact, engaging climb without pretense. It’s a practical introduction to climbing Glenwood Canyon’s sport-trad hybrid lines, grounded in solid technique and anchored in a spectacular, accessible location.
The route’s small roof requires a commitment move that, if taken lightly, could lead to a fall. Bolts and solid placements up to #2 ensure protection, but climbers should be confident with gear placement and aware that a delicate foot slip on the horizontal seam could rock the balance. Approach and descent trails can be loose; stay alert on the granite scree.
Approach on a well-marked and gentle trail offering cool shade in the morning.
Carry a light rack with cams up to #2 Camalot to protect the trad sections effectively.
Afternoon climbing is best when the face is warmed by the sun but not overheated — spring and fall offer ideal temps.
Check weather reports for sudden canyon wind shifts that can impact balance on exposed holds.
Bring a standard rack with cams up to #2 Camalot plus quickdraws for the two bolts. Two-bolt anchor at the top for safe belay or rappel.
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